Lardbelly, or "the tale of the tail" and Barb's fine book

creativeaccents · 6th April 08, 02:37 PM

Finally in preparing to begin, I measured. OH..the horrors! I find a 46 waist at the navel, a 44 at the level of the lower waist at or near the belt and a 46 Gluteous Maximus that is mostly in the rear with considerable emphasis upon the maximus. I ...obviously...want to wear my kilt high. Too, I would like a broad apron, box pleats and narrow pleats...lots of them. Question is, with such concerns, how best to convert these wishes to the measures for Appendix "B". Any of you ever made such a kilt for the ample dunlop and all to ample rear? I am thinking of a solid tweed for a first approach, but would GREATLY appreciate some help from one experienced as it seems that the dunlop is a frequent problem with the front apron, while the pronounced rear often means a less than optimal flow in the back. I do LOVE the look of the narrow box pleats and the solid tweeds.

**ChattanCat** · 6th April 08, 05:16 PM

Wow, I am impressed that you want to attempt a kilt. My suggestion is that you make your first kilt as a throw away. Ok, maybe not a trow away but not something that you will be regreting if it doesn't turn out well. I suggest getting some type of plaid and go for it. After that, you might want too attempt your "real" kilt.

creativeaccents · 6th April 08, 06:30 PM

Actually, I already built the throw away. It was a good investment though, as it taught me such things as the basics of sewing, the importance of proper taper, pleating and how to work with fabrics. But, most of all, it showed me the need of a couple of good books. I also have many different beautiful fabrics. My greatest need (I think) would be some assistance with the interpolation of my measurements into those figures for Appendix "B", but in doing so I thought it best to receive some input from those who know the real "tricks of the trade" in terms of my physical challenges and desire for proper tapering and accounting for the dunlop and derriere, that and my desire for narrow box pleats. I know it has been suggested that the tartan may be easier, but think I would like to approach the mechanics and beauty of a dark tweed first.

**ChattanCat** · 6th April 08, 06:38 PM

Ok, the best way to start is your measurments. So shall we start there?

**ChattanCat** · 6th April 08, 06:40 PM

44 waist
46 hips?

**fluter** · 6th April 08, 07:05 PM

Originally Posted by ChattanCat

44 waist
46 hips?

46 true waist, 44 at the "Levi's waist," 46 hips. Sounds like a cylinder.

But if I'm reading correctly, there's a bit of an overhang at the tummy & "underhang" in the behinder parts. Sounds like a trapezoid.

I have inferred --- and I await being corrected by the experts! that the conventional approach is to measure the hips as though the line of the tummy continued straight down, so that the aprons will hang straight down from the true waist in front.

**ChattanCat** · 6th April 08, 07:14 PM

Yes, I would say that you should not have any taper. That makes the kilt making just a little bit easier.

creativeaccents · 6th April 08, 07:35 PM

Originally Posted by fluter

46 true waist, 44 at the "Levi's waist," 46 hips. Sounds like a cylinder.

But if I'm reading correctly, there's a bit of an overhang at the tummy & "underhang" in the behinder parts. Sounds like a trapezoid.

I have inferred --- and I await being corrected by the experts! that the conventional approach is to measure the hips as though the line of the tummy continued straight down, so that the aprons will hang straight down from the true waist in front.

Trouble is that there is a disproportional apportionment, with the 46 up top mostly in the front and the 46 on the bottom out behind. This was one reason I thought to go straight to the traditional design in Barb's book. Somehow it seems that with "lower riding" kilts the narrower front panels just don't want to wrap evenly and the pleats on the side tend to want to flare outwards.

I loved the looks of the kilts on Celtic Thunder as well as the beauties that Matt has produced in tweed! My thought was for something like a garnet or maroon tweed, but before I cut anything, just wanted some sanity checking as I complete the figures of the appendix "B" type. THANK YOU GUYS!!!

**The Wizard of BC** · 6th April 08, 08:26 PM

A couple of points. The measuring technique where you measure straight down vertically from the stomach is my system. It will only work with my kilts. That's because I then do things with those numbers that are not appearant when the kilt is built.

If you are using Barb's book use her measuring system.

About your box pleats. I would discourage against many small Box Pleats. Remember, the depth of the pleat is 1/2 the width of the reveal in a box pleat. So, for example if your box pleats are 1" wide they are only 1/2" deep.
Much of your swish factor will come from the depth of the pleat. In a knife pleat you will end up with 2"and sometimes 3" of depth depending on the Sett of the Tartan. If using a solid color you can make the depth whatever you want and most will opt for the deepest pleat that they have sufficient fabric for.

**Moosedog** · 6th April 08, 08:58 PM

Yes, Creative Accents, by all means, measure according to your kiltmaker's (or your kiltmaking book's) directions. I'm not suggesting otherwise. I was simply trying to explain how one's actual seat circumference can be the same or even smaller than one's waist circumference, but that building the kilt this way may not make for the best fit.

Steve, thanks for the tip--I'll have to check out your measuring instructions. The "cardboard trick" I refer to is the one I saw my grandmother use in the 1960s. We used shirt cardboard for a lot of things where I grew up.

Moosedog