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  1. #1
    James MacMillan is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
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    OK - So are you using circular needles or doing a strip and then sewing them together? And do I understand correctly that you are doing the hose top and bottom seperately?

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    Quote Originally Posted by James MacMillan View Post
    OK - So are you using circular needles or doing a strip and then sewing them together? And do I understand correctly that you are doing the hose top and bottom seperately?
    You can do it ether way; it depends on the pattern. If you are doing a cable that runs horizontally around the calf, you'll do a long strip (knitting back and forth until it's long enough to go around your calf then marrying start end to stop end). I like to graft the ends together in pattern, but a seam also works well.

    Once you have the top, I like to pick up the stitches around the upper edge of the cuff and then work the sock from the top down. But if you want several tops to go with one pair of hose, that also would work. If you are doing that, I would probably pick up the stitches around the upper edge and knit a few round of K1P1 or K2P2 ribbing - enough to fold under and anchor under your flashes - just so the tops won't slide down your calf when moving.

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    Quote Originally Posted by James MacMillan View Post
    OK - So are you using circular needles or doing a strip and then sewing them together? And do I understand correctly that you are doing the hose top and bottom seperately?
    No, these are one-piece. I'm working top down, no seams or grafts (except at the toe).

    I was knitting in the round. The first pair, I used double-points (you can see one or two down by my leg). The second pair is still under construction using circulars---again, you can see them on the bottom of the completed portion in the photo.

    Quote Originally Posted by ThreadBbdr View Post
    But if you want several tops to go with one pair of hose, that also would work. If you are doing that, I would probably pick up the stitches around the upper edge and knit a few round of K1P1 or K2P2 ribbing - enough to fold under and anchor under your flashes - just so the tops won't slide down your calf when moving.
    I was thinking of a couple of inches of K1P1 rib, as you can see on the teal-green sock that's unfolded, then bind off. One thing that I forgot to do on that pair was to switch to a smaller needle for the ribbing under the top. I decreased by several stitches, but forgot to change needles. Taken together, that will make the ribbing a bit more snug. The first pair will almost stay up without garters.
    Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
    gainfully unemployed systems programmer

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by fluter View Post
    I was knitting in the round. The first pair, I used double-points (you can see one or two down by my leg). The second pair is still under construction using circulars---again, you can see them on the bottom of the completed portion in the photo.
    Here is a close-up of the "pine cone" top. I started with a Picot hem (at the bottom of the pic), then worked the pine cone pattern, added several rows of purl where it folds over, then went into the ribbing.

    The scanner decided this was a grey-scale job, and would not be convinced otherwise but this is the dark teal sock from above.



    Then here is another practice piece that could be made into a top. This is the large shepherd's check from Gainsford:
    Last edited by fluter; 26th May 08 at 02:12 PM.
    Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
    gainfully unemployed systems programmer

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