Go for the Great Kilt over the "Ancient", it is well worth it. I do not own anything from Celtic Croft (yet), but a few of their Great Kilts show up on my friends at kilted gatherings here in Boston. The Great Kilt looks good, and as far as I can tell from the history and style described on Matt Newsome's site, fits the bill with accuracy. I regularly get to see a Duncan tartan in the belted plaid, and it shows quite well.