While I have not sewn a kilt (yet) I have sewn a fair amount of leather. I have found that a harness maker's needle (awl) is a good investment. The needle is like a heavy duty sewing machine needle, with the eye near the point. There is a bobbin which hold the thread (between the needle and the handle). For leather, push the needle through, pull up a goodly amount of thread so you have a loose end, then you push the needle through, pass the end of the thread through the loop formed, pull the needle back out and pull the thread tight. Pre drilling or punching the holes ensures that the stitching will be even. Hope this helps.