The Art of Kiltmaking Q's

**mycoleptodiscus** · 22nd August 08, 12:16 PM

What about the hidden pleat that I supposedly put in? In PICT0019 I have one finger in the deep pleat and one in the hidden pleat? Did I put the hidden pleat in the right place? The hidden pleat will vary in depth based on the length of the sett? In PICT22, the "inverted pleat" (sewn to chalk mark at right underapron) turned out slightly less deep than my normal pleats. Perhaps I mismeasured. I will have to rip this seam. Instead of ripping another pleat to make the inverted pleat, can I scoot the underapron markings over a sett. I have plenty of fabric. So I CANNOT rip that first pleat without causing irreparable harm? Thank you so much for your help. If you PM me your address, I shall send you a genuine Minnesota Lake Superior Agate for your troubles. All I want to know is why on earth would they choose Iceland for their conference?

**ChattanCat** · 22nd August 08, 01:42 PM

If you have the Art of Kiltmaking, go to page 34. I was not able to understand enough of the pictures to descern if you have a deep pleat on the left apron. That is also where the hidden pleat belongs. The underapron, on the right of the pic on pg 34, should have an inverted pleat (also called a box pleat).

Does your kilt match the picture? I also have a tab on that page to refer to when I get confused with left apron and right apron. When you put on a kilt the left hand grabs the apron (left apron), the right hand grabs the underapron (right apron).

Is this how your kilt was made?
Did you strum the pleats?

Hope this helps.

**mycoleptodiscus** · 22nd August 08, 02:20 PM

My deep pleat and hidden pleat are at the left apron edge, as specified by the drawing on pg. 34. This is good! I just need to know the final word on resewing the first pleat and if I can move the sett over to put in an inverted pleat. Things are looking up

What is strumming again? I don't think I have done it yet...

**ChattanCat** · 22nd August 08, 04:25 PM

If you are talking about the inverted pleat it is between the last pleat and the right underapron edge, refer to page 34. Is there an inverted pleat between the last pleat and the right underapron edge?

**mycoleptodiscus** · 22nd August 08, 06:43 PM

Yes, there is a pleat, but it is smaller than the rest, not a big moster like the inverted pleat is supposed to be. This is why I thought of moving the underapron over a sett so I would have enough fabric to do the inverted pleat.

**ChattanCat** · 22nd August 08, 07:16 PM

Ok, on page 64, how much material did you leave between the last pleat and the center of the underapron? It should be 1/2 your hip + 15-17".

**mycoleptodiscus** · 22nd August 08, 07:24 PM

Well, it was more like 1/2 the hip + 5"

. I guess that was my problem. Fortunately, I have plenty of fabric. I'll just remark the underapron according to the instructions on pg. 64. Thanks!

**ChattanCat** · 22nd August 08, 07:52 PM

That's great, looks like you will have a good looking kilt when you are done.

**Carolina Kiltman** · 24th August 08, 06:48 PM

Be sure to show us the finished product. Looks like you solved the problem

**mycoleptodiscus** · 24th August 08, 07:23 PM

I have decided to just let that first larger pleat go. It is, afterall, my first attempt. Today I re-marked the underapron, sewed the last (inverted) pleat and folded and herringboned the bottom edge of the underapron. Yes, I will have pictures when it is completed. My aunt, a knitting goddess, made me some beautiful cream hose.