How to attach the Newsome-style left-hand strap?

[Pleater]

If the buckle is only attached to the one layer of fabric - I'd advise that you sew around it again, through the strap, and the entire apron, that is both layers of fabric and the liner. Otherwise there could be a lot of strain on that single layer, more than enough to distort it.

I would just ensure all the layers were exactly aligned, and then stitch along the edge of the strap. I don't know if there is a name for the stitch, which is back stitch but always inserting the needle at an angle so that on the outside you get tiny stitches across a couple of threads at the most. The lining takes the strain, the stitching just makes everything connected.

The under apron will be hidden in wear, but kilts being works of art you wouldn't want to spoil the look.

A standard kilt is normally able to support itself without a belt, hence all the canvas and lining etc. The buckles and straps need to be firmly fixed to those reinforcements so as to ensure the kilt remains where it should be and not start to give way to gravity.

Anne the Pleater

[sydnie7]

If the buckle is only attached to the one layer of fabric . . .[snip]

As I said, the inner buckle is attached much the same as the outer buckle (as Barb T instructs for outer buckle).

There is a line of backstitching through all layers, just back of the center buckle. The balance of the buckle loop is sewn through all but the outermost layer of underapron (facing and hair canvas).

Barb T's inner buckle attachment scheme is beautifully shown in a new thread (here) where her handiwork on a box pleat is documented. She's put hers on the right side of the underapron, which I will most likely do in future. The photo on Matt Newsome's website didn't clearly show which side the buckle sat on, and those photos were the only guideline I had at the time. Live and learn! which is why I am posting these thoughts and details.

[Pleater]

Oh good grief!!! No wonder people go into ecstasies over their kilts made by Barb T - that is so neat.

I misunderstood what you wrote - I thought that the fixing of the strap and the lining were done separately and had not been joined.

Have you shaped the edge of the under apron?

Anne the Pleater

[sydnie7]

[snip] Have you shaped the edge of the under apron?

Anne the Pleater

Yes, the edge is very slightly shaped -- I don't remember the difference in width from waist to fell, but the whole kilt was done per Barb T's directions with the exception of this inner buckle business.

Now (after getting 6 loaves of banana bread in and out of the oven today) I have to go press it so I can take pics and post them before leaving town! (No relationship between the two actions )