Number vs. size of pleats

[meinfs]

You (and I) have got some great advice from our experts. I don't think I can do better but here is my two cents.



Here's my secret:
One personal approach that I take -- for example, the one I used on my Stewart Gray kilt -- was to find a natural line (two lines) on the tartan to use as the edges of the pleat on both sides (or rather both edges) of the major stripe that I want to pleat it to. As long as this gives a pleat size of 1/2" to 1", and has the aesthetic look that you desire, then it'll be fine. [Needless to say, this approach is limited by the patterns in the tartan and the weight of the tartan fabric. We know that heavier version of the same tartan fabric will tend to have bigger setts and larger distances between lines; the lighter version of the same tartan will have smaller setts and closer lines).

[For me, it makes it much easier to see where I'm stitching (- along a line in the fabric).]

Having said that, you can then back-calculate the number of pleats. Instead of deciding at the start how many pleats you want, start with what pleat size you want. This also means that your pre-determined value of 18" of pleats *may* change. Like W_BC said, it's an art; so it doesn't have to be exactly 18" (it was determined subjectively to begin with anyway). And the tartan will have the final say! That is, it depends on the lines available in the tartan. It may not work as easily for some tartans.


So, now you have the pleat size that you like (this is at the hips!!), calculate the number of pleats that will fill your 18" (give or take). Then calculate the taper (per The Art of Kiltmaking).

Hope this helps.