Gilvray:

You're almost there. You pick one split for the waist and another split for the hips...in your case, as you suggest more in the pleats at the hip is flattering, while more in the apron than the pleats in the waist is so.

So one split that might work for you is waist: 18" apron 16" pleats, and hips: 20" apron and 22" pleats.

That way you apron will widen two inches (one on each side) between the waist and hip, with a continued gentle curve from there to the hem (Barb does a great job describing this part.) The rest of the taper, 6" will be made through the pleats. This sounds about right. You could also go a bit, say 1/2 to one inch either way. Just keep in mind how much taper you will be building into the apron and keep it manageable.

Does this help? Working from a kilt you enjoy the fit of, like you are, is a great way to keep on track.

Moosedog