Where do Kiltmaker's Learn Their Craft?

[ardchoille]

I am learning to make kilts. My skills aren't close to those of Barb, Matt, Rocky, Steve or others yet, but I'm getting better with each kilt I make. I have studied kilt construction, including taking apart a damaged tank, read everything I could find about kilts, and learned quite a bit.

Since being a member of these boards, I have asked lots of questions and recently purchased a copy of Barb's book - I highly recommend this book to anyone who wants to learn about kilt construction. This book has taught me quite a bit and I now find that I am able to judge the quality of a kilt simply by looking at it.

Self-taught shouldn't be held against someone. It's the quality of the product that matters. If someone is making a product that looks like a kilt should, has all the interior construction that a kilt should have (e.g., the steeking mentioned above, which isn't obvious from the outside of a kilt), and is beautifully made, who cares how he/she learned the craft??

And she's absolutely right.

[Pleater]

I don't know if I can be classed as a kilt maker.

I make kilts for myself.

I am so meticulous that I could not charge for the time, but I do not make a reinforced type of kilt. Everything is in the sewing of the waistband and how the shaping is pressed in and tried on, to be sure that the pleats lie properly.

I studied what I could find about making kilts on the net, and after a few trials, rejected it.

I have been making all sorts of clothes for a long time. I started dressing my dolls over 50 years ago. I still read about tailoring and sewing technniques. I look at the way materials are used in museum pieces. Maybe I understand how to twist the grain of cloth. I can see when it needs to be done.

I made kilts, I wore them, I changed the design to the reverse Kingussie, I am getting ever closer to Zen and the Art of making kilts.

Anne the Pleater

[Stewart Rendall]

I missed this thread first time around.

I undertook a five year apprenticeship here in Scotland. Trained by a woman who made kilts for a few Edinburgh shops and private customers for many years. She in turn had been trained by a very elderly lady who had spent her life making kilts, having entered into the trade in her teens.

I was very lucky to have had the benefits of such a wealth of experience and the knowledge passed on has been invaluable.

I'm not sure one could easily find such an apprenticeship today. I rarely meet other kiltmakers in Edinburgh. I'm sure they're not all sitting on 'assembly lines' as mentioned earlier, at least I hope not. I'd like to think there are a few passing on their trade to others through apprenticeships.

[Highlander31]

When I ordered my 16oz 8 yard kilt from Celtic Craft Centre's San Francisco store, I asked about who would be making my kilt. It was explained that they used individual kilt makers. It took six months for my kilt to be completed (part of the time involved the mill in weaving the tartan.) I called the San Francisco Store after three months to check on the progress. I learned about the delay in the mill at that time. The person in the store was helpful and said they would call the Edinburgh shop and learn the status. I decided to call myself. Fortunately for me, the gentleman who had fitted me in the San Francisco store was the person who answered the phone in Edinburgh. He stated the material for my kilt was sent to a woman by the name of Mary, she had been sewing kilts since her teens and had some 25 years experience (if memory serves me.) She was considered to be the best kilt maker they had under contract. Unfortunately Mary did take ill and that did delay the kilt as well, however, the workmanship is fantastic. Five years later, it still looks like it did the day I picked it up. I have recommended Celtic Craft Centre to several others. Each has received the same high quality kilt (in less time than I did.)

[J Byous]

[QUOTE=Riverkilt;250992]"I'm realizing I asked a two pronged question. My original intent was to find out how people learned to sew traditional kilts. That's sort of evolved into how individual kiltmakers learned their craft."

Hey to all from Savannah, GA. I'm a longtime kiltmaker, first time poster.

I've been making kilts in various forms for ten years or more. I started because I wanted a kilt and didn't want to pay retail. I had learned to sew as a young lad -- my mother thought I wouldn't find a wife -- so now I sew and she doesn't.

I tackled my first traditional kilt several years ago after purchasing the now famous book by Barbara Tewksbury and Elsie Stuehmeyer. After about 40 hours of head scratching and stitch pulling I was able to make a pretty darn good kilt.

Since then I've made hundreds of kilts that have been worn by diaspora Scots, Irish Emerald Society members and even a chap in the Washington DC Ballet. If I recall correctly there are a couple of Germans and a Dane in the group as well.

It has been fun and a bit of hard work.

My suggestion for those who want to learn:

If you know how to sew, buy the book. It's a great course in itself. Learn to do it Elsie's way, then modify to your own method.

If you've never sewn, find someone to apprentice under or take the Keith course. It will be worth the time.

When you do start making kilts, be particular. Non-kilt wearers will not see much of a difference between great and just okay. Those who wear kilts regularly will spot a crappy kilt in an instant.

The most important thing about making kilts -- have fun doing it.

J Byous
Savannah

[Barb T]

If you've never sewn, find someone to apprentice under or take the Keith course. It will be worth the time.

Just as another viewpoint on this, I can tell you that many, many people (and quite a few on this forum) have learned how to make kilts just by following the instructions in The Art of Kiltmaking, even though they had never sewn before. So, don't feel, if you haven't sewn before, that you have to find someone to each you personally!

[slohairt]

I learned from three different sources. My late grandmother apprenticed at Kinloch Anderson and taught me everything she knew. (No one else in my family seemed interested in learning!) I adapted some of her methods over the years, partly because I am left-handed (although I can sew right-handed) and partly because some techniques work for some people and some don't. I then bought Barb and Elsie's book a few years ago and further adapted my technique.

I made kilts professionally for a company that recently closed their local shop down and have considerably scaled back operations. I do know that they used two other kiltmakers besides me, but I don't know who they were. I had to submit a kilt pleated to the sett and another pleated to the stripe as well as photos detailing the process. Both were 8-yard knife pleated kilts. (Don't worry, I got them back after!) They didn't seem terribly concerned with experience, just the end result. I can tell you the pay wasn't all that great, but the work was fairly regular. I an still toying with the idea of doing it freelance over the internet, but haven't finalized the details yet.

As for the Keith Kilt School, I believe it is now referred to as the Moray Textile Group (or School?) and their affiliated guild is called the Traditional Kilt Makers' Guild. http://www.traditionalkiltmakersguild.co.uk/They DO accept members who are not graduates (as associate members). One must submit photos of their product by email or snail mail. Their standard are pretty typical of a well-made kilt. The membership fee is £15 and you receive a newsletter, and labels to affix to your kilts.

[ChattanCat]

Just as another viewpoint on this, I can tell you that many, many people (and quite a few on this forum) have learned how to make kilts just by following the instructions in The Art of Kiltmaking, even though they had never sewn before. So, don't feel, if you haven't sewn before, that you have to find someone to each you personally!

That would be me. I'm working on my 21st kilt. Hmm, 21st century kilt?

I started my first kilt as a precursor to my MacPherson modern kilt. I never sewed before and could not have done it without the help from Barb T. and her book. I just recently finished a jacket conversion where I hand sewed the buttonholes... still learning. My previous passions were racing; bicycles, running, and triathlons. Who knew I would become a kilt maker?

How many kilts does a kilt maker make when a kilt maker makes kilts?

[Riverkilt]

How many kilts does a kilt maker make when a kilt maker makes kilts?

My last hand sewn kilt from Kathy Lare, the Antarctica tartan, was her 1,093rd. It was made in June 2008 so I'm guessing she's well over that total now what with being a full time kiltmaker.

Ron

[GDub]

That would be me. I'm working on my 21st kilt. Hmm, 21st century kilt? ... My previous passions were racing; bicycles, running, and triathlons. Who knew I would become a kilt maker?...

Just curious, did you get injured? The reason I ask is because I was a competitive runner during my 20s and early 30s. I got a hip injury that sidelined me, so I took up juggling (to replace the running addiction). I eventually got good enough to perform which led me on quite a wild ride for close to 10 years. Actually, my whole life went in a completely different direction because of the injury.

I did eventually work out the hip problem with a VERY simple stretching technique I learned from an ultra-marathoner. Never had another problem with it, though theses days if I run 15 miles in a week that's a heavy workout week--LOL!

Anyway, making a kilt is on my list so I guess I better get Barb's book and start training...