I have worked with all the weights in the past. The 16 oz seems to be a real b***h to get to stay in place long enough in just the right spot to get 'er stitched down. Guterman thread and lots of beeswax is the only way to go.

Hard to get to stay pleated too. Insofar as it is harder to press the pleats into it than the lighter weight fabrics. I put a damp ironing cloth over it and all the heat and steam my iron can muster.

Fide et Fortitudine, aye!

T.