Need a Dbl check on my measurements

[Barb T]

20 Pleats would give me a 1 & 3/16" reveal at the hip with a 4 & 1/8" depth. or so my calculator tells me.

Yup - that's a little wide for the pleats, but not horrible. The alternative is to have more pleats that are narrower and are 2" deep or so. But you wouldn't be able to use all your tartan. Me, I'd choose the 20 pleats doubling the sett so that you can get as much cloth into the kilt as you have - more swish (and, as the Wizard says, also more swagger and swoon...).