Handmade Wool Kilt by USA Kilts in Auld Lang Syne Modern

[Rex_Tremende]

Some time ago, Rocky announced the availability of some surplus tartans for his Premier and five-yard kilts to be offered at a clearance discount. I called to request one in Auld Lang Syne, but then Rocky kicked in a second offer: Would I be interested in having it made by hand from a kiltmaker in Scotland who would satisfy certain qualifying prerequisites for only a modest upcharge? I agreed, though I must disclose the terms included my review here.

I will let Rocky explain the arrangement at his discretion, but for the purposes of this review, I will say that my only knowledge of the actual kiltmaker is that he or she is represented by Rocky and USA Kilts, with assurances of a certain level of experience.

After discussing it with Rocky over the phone, I ordered my kilt using specs that I have worked out with Barb: waist, hips, total length to the quarter inch; two buckles, with 2.25" rise and a bit of extra flair at the waist. No problem. I forget the day I placed the order - I decided I wasn't going to jones after this one - but it was probably within a week after the announcement on 11/11/2008.

I found out yesterday it had shipped, and today it arrived with my mail without my having to sign for it - which spared me a day's wait and a trip to the P.O.

I am a little amazed that a 16 oz. tank can fit in a box this size.

Someone at USPS shared in the excitement by adding a little smiley face to the note scrawled on one of my bills indicating the package was included with the day's mail - in case I might have missed it on the door step.

I can hardly wait to open it, but first things first.

Hullo, what's this? Almost looks like someone else wanted to see what was in the box.

OK, on with it.
Yup, that's a kilt.

A stack of USA Kilts business cards popped out...

...followed by matching flashes and a second order of overstock navy blue piper's hose.

Hey, I just noticed that one of the flashes is at odds with the rest. The twill runs the wrong way.

The kilt came with three rows of basting stitches.

[To Be Continued]

[Mael Coluim]

Rex, I can see you are a man who savors life's finer moments.

[pdcorlis]

Way to go Rex! Wow- not only did your beautiful 16 oz. tank fit in the box - a pair of piper hose and flashes fit as well? My oh my! Now its time to show us how it looks on you fine self.

Congratulations on the addition to your kollection!

[Rex_Tremende]

The buckles are nice and solid, cast with no sharp edges. You can't see it here, but they are attached with bits of tartan that aligns with the rest of the kilt. The leather is about 3/16 inch thick and oddly shiny.

I asked for a bit of extra flair in the rise, and it was put mostly on the sides (to accommodate love handles??) as opposed to evenly tapered all around. You can see it most acutely around the buckles as the taper reverses and the tartan bends a bit. I don't mind this at all - it was what I asked for without specifying how it should be engineered.

Here's the inside lining. There are loops! I've never had those before. Now I guess I'll have to sew some buttons into my jackets to match.

It's kind of loose and wrinkly. It's attached in places, so I don't know if that will flatten out much. I know there has to be some degree of play here, but how much, I'm not sure.

I can tell the pleats have been trimmed out by the feel. I think I also feel a stabilizer under there by the sound of a scratch. You can see the canvas under the lining on the aprons.

The basting stitches were removed. I won't show that part of the operation, since I violated the "no sharp objects" rule. I tried it on before removing them and the initial impression is that it fits very nicely - like a glove, as they say. I do think I need to cinch the tape measure a bit more around the waist the next time I do this, as I doubt I could lose much weight without it needing taken in some.

This is the first kilt I've ever had that was pieced together from a double-width length of tartan. The seam is a little to one side in the back, on a forward facing inside pleat.

It's a flat seam, sewn like you would see the outside seam on a pair of jeans - rolled over so there are no raw edges. It looks to be machine stitched. Here is a close-up.

Here it is on the inside.

That's all I have for tonight. Not sure when I'll get to the rest of the review - maybe not until Wednesday or Thursday night on account of work - but I'll add it to this thread when I do.

Thanks Rocky!

Regards,
Rex.

[sydnie7]

Lovely tartan and looks like a well-made kilt. The loops, according to The Art of..., are "hanging loops" for temporary support of the kilt while donning and undonning (is that a word?). Not for permanent storage, and not AFAIK anything to do with holding down jackets. But I could be wrong.

The seam is also as per TAOK, although I hand-sew mine. But placement is just where Barb T has you put it.

The leather does look odd, but presumably those will be beneath a belt in most cases?

Congratulation on a beautiful kilt!

[Rex_Tremende]

Lovely tartan and looks like a well-made kilt. The loops, according to The Art of..., are "hanging loops" for temporary support of the kilt while donning and undonning (is that a word?). Not for permanent storage, and not AFAIK anything to do with holding down jackets. But I could be wrong.

The seam is also as per TAOK, although I hand-sew mine. But placement is just where Barb T has you put it.

The leather does look odd, but presumably those will be beneath a belt in most cases?

Congratulation on a beautiful kilt!

Doffing, perhaps. One doffs a hat, but I don't know about other articles of clothing.

Somewhere recently I read a suggestion that the loops might be employed to keep any bit of shirt showing between a doublet and kilt whilst dancing perhaps - in lieu of braces. I don't need them yet, so I'm hoping they stay tucked in.

As for the seam, I have no opinion yet - other than I don't think it's as neat as it could be. I've never seen one, so I posted the pix so others might have an idea of what it's like if they should ever get or make a kilt out of a 4 yard length of double-width tartan.

Regards,
Rex.

[Bugbear]

Sounds great, Rex! Congratulations.

[sydnie7]

Doffing, perhaps. One doffs a hat, but I don't know about other articles of clothing.

Somewhere recently I read a suggestion that the loops might be employed to keep any bit of shirt showing between a doublet and kilt whilst dancing perhaps - in lieu of braces. I don't need them yet, so I'm hoping they stay tucked in.

As for the seam, I have no opinion yet - other than I don't think it's as neat as it could be. I've never seen one, so I posted the pix so others might have an idea of what it's like if they should ever get or make a kilt out of a 4 yard length of double-width tartan.

Regards,
Rex.

I like "doffing." Donning and doffing, a bit like day and night. I could take this farther but it's a family-friendly forum

The doublet reference had to do with loops on the doublet that have strangely shaped hooks at the end. Come to think of it, I don't believe TAOK includes instructions for ribbon loops, may have come from one of the other sets of kilt-making instructions I've read over the past few years. Memory seldom serves, these days.

I discussed that seam with Barb T a bit after commenting that I didn't care for the placement that she specified in the book. She likes it there, I like it elsewhere, that's what makes a horse race.

Still waiting to see how it fits! (preferably posed in front of that fireplace. . .)
Enjoy,
Sydnie

[Downix]

A stack of USA Kilts business cards popped out...

Ooooo! (I collect business cards)

[Mipi]

As for the seam, I have no opinion yet - other than I don't think it's as neat as it could be. I've never seen one, so I posted the pix so others might have an idea of what it's like if they should ever get or make a kilt out of a 4 yard length of double-width tartan.

Regards,
Rex.

You're right! It is not neat at all. If done as suggested in Barbs book, you can hardly notice the seam on the outside. Even if stitched with machine I can't say it's neat.