Cap Badges: Button shank backs

[Bugbear]

Thanks, Puffer. I don't like the idea of putting holes in fabric for things like this, and I would think the hole would probably need to be stitched to keep it from un raveling.

I have been looking into using a thin wire, like an high E guitar string, that is bent into a "U" shape. The wire should be thin enough to pass through the fabric, I'm thinking of buttons on a jacket, without harm to the fabric.

The wire is then crimped together on the inside. You would have to use new wire with each change of item, but it would not require any holes. I'm guessing that thicker wire could be used on a bonnet, but the ends of the wire need to not be jagged in any way to go through the fabric well.

[kiltimabar]

Thanks, Puffer. I don't like the idea of putting holes in fabric for things like this, and I would think the hole would probably need to be stitched to keep it from un raveling.

I have been looking into using a thin wire, like an high E guitar string, that is bent into a "U" shape. The wire should be thin enough to pass through the fabric, I'm thinking of buttons on a jacket, without harm to the fabric...
.

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

[Bugbear]

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

Thanks, kiltimabar. I am working with buttons, so it would be a lot different. That gives me a direction to go in, though.

[puffer]

but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

[Bugbear]

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

Interesting. I think I understand now.