Cap Badges: Button shank backs

[kiltimabar]

Thanks, Puffer. I don't like the idea of putting holes in fabric for things like this, and I would think the hole would probably need to be stitched to keep it from un raveling.

I have been looking into using a thin wire, like an high E guitar string, that is bent into a "U" shape. The wire should be thin enough to pass through the fabric, I'm thinking of buttons on a jacket, without harm to the fabric...
.

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

[Bugbear]

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

Thanks, kiltimabar. I am working with buttons, so it would be a lot different. That gives me a direction to go in, though.

[puffer]

but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

[Bugbear]

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

Interesting. I think I understand now.