Implementing kilt tilt correction

[Phicong]

All of my contemporary kilts (3 UK's, 3 home sewed) have a kilt tile of about 5-10 degrees from low in the front to high in the back. When I wear one and I stand up from any sitting or even leaning over, I need to tug the back down and raise the belt an inch or so.
I plan to make some more kilts, HOWEVER, I hate this kilt tilt crap.
How do I correct for this in the sewing. I know in theory, just add to the back but I believe it is more complicated than that. I would like an engineer's description of how to do it correctly.
I would appreciate any valid info but please be aware that I have absolutely no sense of humor about this problem.

Gordon

[The Wizard of BC]

If I understand you correctly the problem you are experiencing is that the Kilt wants to ride higher in the back than it does in the front and does not stay naturally in place between a sitting and a standing position.

If this is what you are describing the solution is to incorporate Slope into the making of your Kilts.

As far as I know I am the only Kiltmaker to incorporate the natural body shape known as Slope into each and every Kilt I make.

The first thing I need to know to offer advice is where are you wearing the waistband of your Kilts?

If you have one would you please post a photo of you in one of your Kilts. A photo taken from the side would be most helpful.

I'll then respond with a possible solution. Or at least tell you how I do it.

[Phicong]

Whereas I need to send you the pictures. I will be sending them via an email. Thanks.
Gordon

[The Wizard of BC]

Phicong,

I have received your email with the photos. Thanks.

In the photos you appear to be wearing the Kilt at what I call Mid-Rise. The waistband is riding on top of your hip bones. If you will look at the photos yourself you will notice that the Kilt you have on is too short. The Hem is well, over 2", above your knees.

To measure for this type of Kilt I take, in addition to the standard measurements of Waist circumference, Hip Circumference and Drop, the measurements to account for the Slope of the waistband.

Please remember that each Kiltmaker has their own system of measuring and the one I will now describe is only used by me. OK, call me weird but it seems to work for me.

Put on your current Kilt or use a Kilt Belt or piece of 2" webbing and adjust it up and down until it is where you wish, or like, the waistband of your Kilt to ride. Please don't use your naval as a reference, as the location of a man's naval changes with weight loss or gain.
I like to think of the waistband cinching into one of three places in the back near the spine.

Full-Rise is defined as the waistband cinched into a small hollow just at the level of your Kidneys. If you place your hand on your back with the fingers spread and on the spine, and your thumb at the side just under the ribs, then bend side to side, you will notice that your thumb will fall into a hollow just under the ribs. This is your natural Waist. It is the place where the top straps of a Traditional Kilt cinch into.

Mid-Rise is defined as another hollow that can be found right at the small of your back at the spine. At the side it is usually just above or below the "Love handles" depending on your weight. A mid-rise waistband will sit right on top of the crest of your hip bones.

Low-Rise is defined as where Jeans are worn. The Waistband goes over the hip bones and in back is down, resting on top of the crest of the buttocks, or the base of the spine.

Now you have found your waist height you can take your measurements.

Stick a piece of masking tape on a door frame or the corner of a wall. This gives you a place to make some pencil marks and protects your paintwork.
(Caution - Failure to use masking tape and making marks on paint work has a tendency to cause a man to sleep on the couch for a month.)

1. To find your Waist circumference take your flexible tape measure (or if you don't have a tape measure like those used by dressmakers, a belt, piece of webbing, or thick string will work) and measure the circumference of your waist just above the waistband of your Kilt. This measurement should be taken over a t-shirt or dress shirt and should be snug but not tight. The tape measure should be able to move from side to side. Read this measurement to the nearest 1/2".

2. To find your Hip circumference take your tape measure and place it around your hips and butt at the largest point. This measurement should be taken fairly loosely. There has been a lot of discussion on the forum about the amount of taper from the hips to the waist. In my experience I have found that the average difference is usually between 3" and 6". The only time I can think of where there is no taper to a Kilt is in the rare case when a man can stand with his back to a wall and the butt and waist touch the wall at the same time.
If you have a beer belly or you are a "Gentleman of Substance" you may find it easier to think of the aprons falling straight down from your belly and hold the tape measure out in the front to simulate this.
Take your Hip Circumference measurement to the nearest 1/2".

3. Now stand against your piece of masking tape with your side as close as you can get while still standing naturally. With a pencil, make a mark on the tape just at the top of the waistband of your Kilt. Label this mark "0".
This mark is a zero or reference from which all the other marks you are going to make will be measured from.

4. Stand naturally with your stomach against the wall and make a mark on the tape right in the front of your stomach. Label this mark "-" or minus. If you use your tape measure and find the length between mark "0" and mark "-" you have just found your Front Slope. Read this length to the nearest 1/4".

5. Now do the same thing but this time you will stand with your back to the wall and place the mark on the tape at the top of the waistband right at your spine. Label this mark "+" or plus. If you find the length from mark "0" to mark "+" you have just found your Rear Slope. Read this length to the nearest 1/4".

6. While you are standing with your back against the masking tape make a mark where your butt first touches the wall. If you slowly back up to the wall the first part of your butt that touches is perfect. Label this mark "F". If you find the length from mark "0" down to mark "F" you have just found your Fell Length. Read this length to the nearest 1/4".

7. Now comes the one measurement that most Kiltmakers warn you not to do by yourself. But because the length of your lower leg from the floor up to your knee will not change when you bend over, using this method is a good way to find your hem if you need to take your measurements by yourself.
Place your leg against the wall with your foot and knee touching the masking tape. Find where you wish to have the hem of your Kilt touch the kneecap and make a mark on the tape at that point. Label this mark "D". If you find the length from mark "0" down to mark "D" you have just found your Drop length. Read this length to the nearest 1/4"

A note. In Contemporary Style Kilts we usually define Drop as the total length of the Kilt from the top of the waistband down to the bottom of the hem.
A Traditional Style Kiltmaker defines Drop as the length from the center of the top strap down to the bottom of the Hem. In a Traditional Style Kilt there will be 2", 3", and sometimes even 4" of Kilt above the top straps. This is called the Rise.
So a set of measurements for a Traditional Kilt may or may not include the Rise. Sometimes you see the Drop listed like 22" + 2". This means that the total length of the Kilt is 24".
In measuring for my Contemporary Kilts please use the total length of the Kilt from top of waistband to bottom of Hem as the Drop.

I'll discuss how to actually build Slope into the waistband of your Kilt in my next post.




:ootd:

[KiltedBrewer]

Hi Wizard,

I know this wasn't my thread, but I'd already been trying to figure out how to build slope into my next x-kilt. Your measuring instructions were really helpful in getting started and I can't wait to see your next post.

Thanks in advance,
David

[horseshoehank]

I'm still waiting to hear how you put all these measurements into play....anyone?

Chuck

[theomne]

I am making my first XKilt and really would like to put a slope into it to accommodate my... substance. lol... Wizard, I love your explanation here, and the pictures in this thread http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/a...05/index2.html I edited one of the pictures in that thread with some specific questions (drawn on the picture) I wonder if it would be okay if I posted that pic here and if you could answer the questions?

Thanks!
Brad