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22nd July 09, 06:57 AM
#1
Dandyism and the Kilt
 Originally Posted by McMurdo
If you look closely these gentlemen (all servants on the Balmoral Estate) are identically dressed-- in fact, elsewhere in this thread there is a photo of John Brown and he, too, is dressed exactly like these men. Given the length of their jackets I suspect that they are wearing their "estate tweeds"-- suits made up by a local tailor and supplied to the staff (as part of their wages) by their employer-- but with kilts substituted for trousers. When you compare this photo to the one showing a gaggle of assorted royals and gentry, it is obvious that the "ghillies" attire has as much to do with identifying them, at a glace, as servants as it does with Highland fashion.
Matt's point about "intent" is excellent, especially if coupled to DWII's observations on affectation of dress. In my opinion this bit of "dandyism" is what traditional Highland attire is all about-- or at least what it should be all about. As Phil pointed out, there is far more conformity today than a century ago. It would seem as if style has been ground under the wheels of Blake's "dark satanic mills", dooming most men to servant's livery.
Last edited by MacMillan of Rathdown; 22nd July 09 at 07:26 AM.
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22nd July 09, 07:09 AM
#2
 Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown
In my opinion this bit of "dandyism" is what traditional Highland attire is all about-- or at least what it should be all about.
Oui Monsieur !
I like the idea of a rustic dandy .
Best,
Robert
Robert Amyot-MacKinnon
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22nd July 09, 11:59 AM
#3
 Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown
If you look closely these gentlemen (all servants on the Balmoral Estate) are identically dressed-- in fact, elsewhere in this thread there is a photo of John Brown and he, too, is dressed exactly like these men. Given the length of their jackets I suspect that they are wearing their "estate tweeds"-- suits made up by a local tailor and supplied to the staff (as part of their wages) by their employer-- but with kilts substituted for trousers.
Actually Balmoral tweeds are tailored somewhere in England (don't remember exactly where) but it would have been nice to give the business to someone locally. The same, unfortunately, goes for much other work where contractors are brought in from down south, builders, security consultants etc.. Sadly I'm afraid it is all symptomatic of so much in this country that everything is focussed on where the Head Office is which almost always translates to the London area. It is as if work in Texas had to be supervised from Washington using businesses, materials and workpeople from there. Here I am simply stating facts not grinding any axes but you can begin to imagine how resentment begins and festers.
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22nd July 09, 01:24 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by Phil
Actually Balmoral tweeds are tailored somewhere in England (don't remember exactly where) but it would have been nice to give the business to someone locally. The same, unfortunately, goes for much other work where contractors are brought in from down south, builders, security consultants etc.. Sadly I'm afraid it is all symptomatic of so much in this country that everything is focussed on where the Head Office is which almost always translates to the London area. It is as if work in Texas had to be supervised from Washington using businesses, materials and workpeople from there. Here I am simply stating facts not grinding any axes but you can begin to imagine how resentment begins and festers.
Tell me about it! As a veteran of the "BBC Scotland vs. London and the Six Home Counties" wars I couldn't agree more. Probably reason #283 that I moved to the USA...
I'm surprised to learn that the estate workers at Balmoral have their tweeds cut in London-- it must be a bear getting everyone down to the City for a fitting. I wonder if this is a recent thing, say since the mid 70s or so when the last decent tailors in the Highlands shuttered their shops for the last time.
Actually, having said this, I seem to recall Mr. Costello (of Costello and Son in Ilford, North London) saying he traveled up to Scotland to fit members of the Royal Household up there, so perhaps he did the Estate tweeds?
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22nd July 09, 02:55 PM
#5
 Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown
Tell me about it! As a veteran of the "BBC Scotland vs. London and the Six Home Counties" wars I couldn't agree more. Probably reason #283 that I moved to the USA...
I'm surprised to learn that the estate workers at Balmoral have their tweeds cut in London-- it must be a bear getting everyone down to the City for a fitting. I wonder if this is a recent thing, say since the mid 70s or so when the last decent tailors in the Highlands shuttered their shops for the last time.
Actually, having said this, I seem to recall Mr. Costello (of Costello and Son in Ilford, North London) saying he traveled up to Scotland to fit members of the Royal Household up there, so perhaps he did the Estate tweeds?
I have no idea where the men of the Balmoral Estate have their suits made, but " Haggarts of Aberfeldy" still make tweed and do make shooting suits in "Estate tweed" for many(most?) estates that require them, throughout the UK. I understand that Haggarts do travel to various estates, but the last time I visited them, to pick up new cap, there were 16 stalkers and gamekeepers being measured up for their suits------all from the same estate.
Last edited by Jock Scot; 22nd July 09 at 03:12 PM.
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