Kilt Review: Tewksbury Maple Leaf Tank

[ForresterModern]

This may seem a bit like taking coals to Newcastle, but thought I ought to put out a review of my handsewn second tank, made by Barb Tewksbury---kiltmaker extraordinaire, after having done a big job on my first handsewn tank a month or two ago from a different kiltmaker. This is my first kilt from Barb, but I hope it will not be my last.

Tartan is Fraser & Kirkbright 16oz Maple Leaf bought from the sale run back in January, thanks to the kind offer of our own Thistledown to split an 8 meter double width piece of fabric because of the asymmetric tartan pattern of the Maple Leaf. He got it straight from Gordon and even before I had paid for it it was winging its way to Barb to enter her que, finally rising to the top around the time she was leaving for her Iceland adventure. First of all. Barb is great to work with----excellent communication. After recieving the tartan she let me know she had it and gave me exhaustive instructions on how she wanted me to get measured for it. A few weeks before she started the kilt she emailed to ask if those measurements were still accurate (I am a big guy with some weight fluctuations between winter and summer). She then again re-verified them with me after she noticed something in the pictures of the other tank I recently reviewed that made her concerned about the fit and appearence since that kilt was made using essentially the same measurements.

The kilt itself is beautifully made with perfect even stitching and meticulous detail to the fell pleating and lining up the sett, etc.. Quality materials and workmanship throughout, and a perfect fit with the straps on the second hole. Pleats are deep (4.5-4.75 inches each) and plentiful (26 plus 1 reverse pleat). She made judicious use of about 7.5m (61+ repeats of 4.75 inch sett in the body of the kilt---right at 8 yards) of the aforementioned 8 meters sent, which is pretty efficient in my book. She even tapered the fringe edge of the front apron to accomodate distortion of the overall kilt shape caused by my big gut and butt. Barb recommends only single straps on either side, and no belt loops, and it looks and fits great this way. She even has her own logo tag for the inside lining to document it is a handsewn by Barb Tewksbury. My only detraction with the kilt is not of Barb's workmanship, but instead an unfortunate piece of tartan that is not square and causes the front apron to skew to the left all the vertical stripes by an inch or more. Barb said she had noticed this misalignment in the tartan before she built it and thought she had corrected it with some aggressive ironing, but unfortunately it must have been reluctant to be straightened out. (see my other more detailed posting in the Tartans and Heraldry section thread on Fraser & Kirkbright custom weavers). The left first pleat also has a bit of a tendency to kick out once in a while, probably more related to my torso configuration than any build issues. Barb, please chime in if I got any of the details wrong or if you have additional comments to make.

Front view kilt only:



Right side kilt only:



Back view kilt only:



Left side kilt only:



Full front view with belt and sporran:



Hamish pleat view:




I am hoping I will be able to get the front apron skew issue straightened out (no pun intended) with some creative use of an additional kilt hanger on the bottom of the front apron with some added weight while hanging in the closet for the next month or two between wearings.

All in all a very well built and attractive kilt, well fitting in all ways. So far this is my wife's favorite tartan (aside from the skew issue), even beating out the IoS hanging in the closet right beside it. Barb included a beautiful pair of tartan flashes. Barb also sent along an extra strip of excess fabric of significant length, as well as the multiple roughly pocket shaped and sized pieces I assume she cut out of the fell during construction, which my wife is going to use to make a toddler bed quilt from.

I will be very proud to wear this kilt for the rest of my days (or at least as long as I can still fit in it), and to hand it down to future generations as the heirloom it is and will be. Thank you Barb for your time and efforts. It has been a pleasure to deal with you.

Lastly, I picked up a pair of special kilt pins just for this particular tartan, while I was waiting for the kilt to be made up. I think they are particularly appropriate:



One tri-metal (copper, brass, and silver) triple leaf Maple Leaf pin and one gold tone double leaf Maple Leaf pin, both off ebay.


Jeff :ootd: and the newest member of the Tewksbury Kilt Owners Group

[Big Mikey]

Such big talent in such a little lady, congratulations!

[Highland Logan]

That's very nice. I have that tartan as a throw over the back of my chesterfield. The sett is a lot larger however. You will have to get yourself a beaver fur sporran to go with your maple leaf pins.

Frank

[KFCarter]

Oh, my goodness. It's beautiful and the pleat shot... wow... really perfect! My last tank was made with two straps and no loops and I've come to appreciate that.

Yes, you can notice the "skew" issue in the first front shot, but for me it's far less noticeable once you add the belt and sporran and "in action" it might go unnoticed entirely. BTW, the hose go very well with it... where did they come from?

You're right. It's an heirloom. Congratulations! I can't imagine anyone not wanting a Tewksbury.

[ForresterModern]

Oh, my goodness. It's beautiful and the pleat shot... wow... really perfect! ....... BTW, the hose go very well with it... where did they come from?

Thanks for the compliments but they should be directed at Barb, the artist, as I am but the humble owner of the piece of art work.

The hose are from the Scotweb "country socks" collection made by the Hawick Hose company. They are not a perfect match when you look closely as the hose colors are a bit brighter than the tartan, but close enough for government work, as my uncle ( the postal clerk) always said.

http://www.scotweb.co.uk/browse/mens...ks?display=all

Not certain if Scotweb carries the exact pattern anymore but they have several other similar styles and color combos available.

jeff

[GMan]

Looks awesome!

[Fit2BKilted]

First of all, I think that kilt is marvelous, and it suits you.
Pleating asymetric to sett has got to be one of the most complicated operations I can imagine!

Thanks for the compliments but they should be directed at Barb, the artist, as I am but the humble owner of the piece of art work.

The hose are from the Scotweb "country socks" collection made by the Hawick Hose company. They are not a perfect match when you look closely as the hose colors are a bit brighter than the tartan, but close enough for government work, as my uncle ( the postal clerk) always said.

http://www.scotweb.co.uk/browse/mens...ks?display=all

Not certain if Scotweb carries the exact pattern anymore but they have several other similar styles and color combos available.

jeff

I also was immediately drawn to the socks... Very nice choice to compliment Barb's artwork!

Now... about the material... Since I started the Fraser & Kirkbright thread under Heraldry: How does it compare to the material of your other tanks?

[MacKay71]

Looks Good!

[george7]

Such big talent in such a little lady, congratulations!

Size is relative, Big Mikey.

The kilt looks great! but what else could you expect from her?

[ForresterModern]

First of all, I think that kilt is marvelous, and it suits you.

Now... about the material... Since I started the Fraser & Kirkbright thread under Heraldry: How does it compare to the material of your other tanks?

Fit 2

I did a more thorough comparison on your F&K thread but will revamp an abbreviated version here. The F&K 16 oz Maple Leaf has beautiful coloration, a soft drapy hand, does feel lighter than its stated 16oz (more like 13) and does take a pleat slightly less well. Its selvedge (at least in the piece I got) is noticeable, a bit fuzzy and wavy distorting the finish of the tartan visibly where it is supposed to be hidden in a dark thin stripe. I have 16oz handsewn kilts also in fabric from Strathmore, and machine sewn from Lochcarron Strome, Marton Mills Jura, Islay Mills, and House of Edgar Nevis range, and unsewn fabric awaiting a kiltmaker's needle and shears from Dalgleish. In my opinion the F&K is not quite comparable to any of the above in its characteristics across the board for kiltmaking, with the Strathmore, Lochcarron and Dalgleish standing above the rest in overall quality. Not even quite comparable to Strathmore and HoE 13 ox fabrics, in my opinion.

Hope this is helpful.

J