Planning our first trip to Scotland - Need your help!

[Sir William]

Okay, guys! Gather the tourist info I'm really looking forward to your answers!!!

Scott and I are planning our first trip to Scotland in 2011. (I know it's a long time from now, but in order to do it right, we have to have a lot of advance planning and saving!)
1. When is the best time to go (although we would have loved being there for the Gathering, and other than Games and Festivals, we don't generally like huge crowds.)
2. What are your top five items on your must see and/or do list?
3. What's on your "don't bother, huge waste of time/money" list?
4. Where are the best places to eat and stay and why?
5. Any further advice?

First off, its not too early to start planning. Check out some guide books from your library and do some research in advance. After browsing the guidebooks I hit the internet for more information. I made a list of places I absolutely wanted to visit, then a list of places I'd like to visit time permiting or if I had to adjust my original plans. Mapped out the route to minimize travel time and maximize sightseeing time, though allowing plenty of time to stop and see something that caught our eye, or have a leisurely meal or do a little shopping along the way.

My first question would be how long do you plan to stay? I've been twice and haven't begun to scratch the surface on what I want to see or do. My first trip was by coach and I went where the coach went - but it was a nice introduction and I didn't have to worry about driving or hotels, and fortunately we got along well with our fellow passengers. My second trip was a self-drive to visit those places I didn't see the first time. My third trip (planned for 2013) will probably be focused on the Borders and the West Highlands. My fourth trip will be to the Highlands beyond Inverness and to some of the islands.

My second question is what are you interested in? I like history but not all history - and I know there are many that one museum visit is either too much or just enough. If you are interested in history, art or architecture (or not), visit a castle, a manor house, and a cathedral/church. I also think a visit to Culloden Battlefield is worth a visit - but only if you're interested in Scottish history. We also did a few hikes, played golf (at least the wife did), took quiet walks through the towns or along the river (there seems to always be a river), stopped to admire the scenery, and shopped (woolens and whisky topped the list this trip).

I'd recommend seeing the Tattoo in Edinburgh, which is only in August, if you can. I don't like crowds either but the Tattoo is worth seeing. Note that tickets go very quickly so reserve them early. Then get the heck out of town and go somewhere, anywhere, else.

Visit a distillery. Its very informative and fun.

Do the tacky tourist thing and look for Nessie. Its fun. And, you might be lucky.

I like B&Bs, though my wife prefers hotels, so we stayed in a mix of both. Though after some of the B&Bs we stayed in this last trip I think she is coming around.

The wife prefers restaurants and I prefer pubs for food, so we compromised on that as well. No complaints. Pub food can be rather plain, if filling, while restaurants can provide some very interesting and delicious dishes, though often much more expensive.

If you drive take along a GPS if you can. I took our TomTom (after purchasing the UK maps) and it made getting from point A to B much easier, particularly as my wife can't read a map and has trouble understanding British road signs.

Pack clothing for all kinds of weather - you'll probably have it. Its been hot and sunny, cold and wet, cold an sunny, and everything in between, all in a couple of days. Don't let the weather stop you.

[piperdown]

Castles...castles...castles...did I mention castles!!!!

Dunnottar Castle near Stonehaven was one of the most spectacular. Stonehaven is cool too. 3000 BC burial grounds...
Eilean Donan was fantastic as well...watch "The Highlander" before you see it as it is used in the movie.
Urquhart was probably my favourite. The had a life size catapult out front on the grounds.
So much history...so little time to see it....

[MacKay71 Wife]

My first question would be how long do you plan to stay?
My second question is what are you interested in? I like history but not all history - and I know there are many that one museum visit is either too much or just enough.
I'd recommend seeing the Tattoo in Edinburgh, which is only in August, if you can. I don't like crowds either but the Tattoo is worth seeing. Note that tickets go very quickly so reserve them early. Then get the heck out of town and go somewhere, anywhere, else.

Visit a distillery. Its very informative and fun.

Do the tacky tourist thing and look for Nessie. Its fun. And, you might be lucky.

First, we are hoping to go for a minimum of 10 days. From what we're hearing, any shorter than that would be a waste for our first trip.
Second, LOVE history. Not really into museums per se, but really love to visit historical places. And, I am really looking forward to visiting places so much older than we have in the states.
Third, The Tattoo is definitely on the list, which is the other reason for considering going in August.
Fourth, Scott has been talking about visiting a particular island (sorry, the name escapes me at the moment) where there are several distilleries, so I'm sure that will be a must-see as well!
Fifth, yeah, Nessie might be fun!! I don't mind a few tacky tourist things, I just don't want most of the trip to be that!!!!

[thanmuwa]

First, we are hoping to go for a minimum of 10 days. From what we're hearing, any shorter than that would be a waste for our first trip.
Second, LOVE history. Not really into museums per se, but really love to visit historical places. And, I am really looking forward to visiting places so much older than we have in the states.
Third, The Tattoo is definitely on the list, which is the other reason for considering going in August.
Fourth, Scott has been talking about visiting a particular island (sorry, the name escapes me at the moment) where there are several distilleries, so I'm sure that will be a must-see as well!
Fifth, yeah, Nessie might be fun!! I don't mind a few tacky tourist things, I just don't want most of the trip to be that!!!!

The island will be Islay probably (ignore the y and pronounce it like that actress Isla Fisher). Islay whiskies are excellent, in a class of their own. If you are going to Islay from Glasgow (or even Edinburgh), the trip up the west coast of Loch Lomond is very beautiful and the Loch Fyne Oysterbar (at the top of Loch Fyne) has great seafood. You can get a ferry to Islay from Kincraig on the Mull of Kintyre, or (AFAIK) a stopoff one from Oban. Someone else might be able to recommend a preference on that, I've not done both to compare them.

If you are already in that neck of the woods, the trip up through Rannoch Moor to Glencoe then Fortwilliam would be a shame to miss, spectacular scenery. The Clachaig inn in Glencoe is a nice place to stop off for a dram, and there are a range of inexpensive and more expensive places to stay in Glencoe (it is a big destination for what we call walkers and you call hikers ). Ben Nevis, Scotland's tallest mountain, is just outside Fortwilliam.

There are many hidden gems in Scotland, so when you have a finalised or even vaguely finalised route plan, post it and I am sure you will get some nice recommendations to see or do on your way.

My other piece of advice is to accept that you are not going to get it all done and plan a relaxed itinerary accordingly. I have seen tourists rushing around trying to get to everything by spending 2 minutes in each place, and they really don't look like they are enjoying their holiday! Leave plenty of time for travel because there will at various points be roadworks, slow traffic, late ferries, people gone for coffee just as you wanted to check in or various other delays.

[Jock Scot]

Thanmuwa, as have others, has made good points. Scottish roads in the highlands do not allow for high speed travel.It might say 50 miles on the sign post or map, but do not make the mistake of thinking you will do that in about an hour! Narrow twisty roads,traffic, fellow visitors, dawdling, looking at the view, people on the wrong side of the road(OH YES!),lorries and caravans that are impossible to overtake, sheep and cattle in the road,cyclists and the list goes on! Allow plenty of time anyway as you may need to stop often to admire the view.

A plea from a local! When driving in the highlands, PLEASE look in your mirrors often and if you see a stream of traffic behind you (5 cars or more) PULL OVER AT THE FIRST SAFE PLACE AND LET THEM PASS.

[Bruno]

It is also important to mention on single track roads that they have passing places, where you pull in to let people pass you or vice versa (depends on who is closer to one). So look well ahead and make sure if something is coming in time to pull in.

Be very careful pulling off onto the grass as sometimes if its wet peat (this stuff stays wet for ages even if you have not had rain for days) you will sink in and get stuck by the suction. That's why you see so many 4 wheel drives here in the rural areas.

[Heming]

I'll give my advise as a former alien in Scotland:

1 - I prefer May. Middle of spring, not too bad weather, and lovely flowers everywhere. Also there's no major festivals that I know of, so accommodation isn't too hard to find.

2 - I may be a bit biased towards Edinburgh, so I'll start with the non-Lothian things:
2.1 - Dunvalanree Hotel in Carradale, Mull of Kintyre. It's an attraction in itself, with luxurious rooms, fantastic, home-cooked food, the best service I've experienced (family run) and a fantastic view of Arran. Go there for supper, stay the night and experience the worlds most fantastic three-course breakfast. With a bit of imagination it could be considered on the way to Islay, too...
2.2 - New Lanark village museum - An old industry town, now defunct, but restored as a museum. There's a woolen mill, a cotton-processing plant and lots of other very interesting stuff. Great tours that teach you a lot about the industrialisation of Scotland, and fantastic gift shop with products made in the village. Very good quality knitting yarn and patterns for traditional knit garments.
2.3 - In Edinburgh, go to "Mary King's Close", an under-ground tour of an old street excavated under the existing buildings.
2.4 - Still in Edinburgh, visit The Famous Peacock Inn on Lindsay road near Leith docks. They have the best fish and chips imaginable and a very good selection of ales and whiskies. Book a table, it's usually full...
2.5 - In Edinburgh, don't forget to pop by Armstrong's vintage clothing shop on the Grassmarket. They often have kilts, kilt jackets and other apparel in very good condition for very good prices. Afterwards, go across the square to any of the excellent pubs there for lunch!

3 - Don't take too many destillery tours unless you're extremely fascinated by whisky. They're more or less the same experience all over, in my opinion.

4 - I think I covered that in question 2 ... In Edinburgh it's generally a good idea to stay clear of the Royal Mile, except "End of the World" which is pricey, but has good food. Try the Saltire in Rose Street for good, real scottish food without the fancies.

5 - Don't try to see too many sights and try too many things. Make a plan of one or two attractions per day. Stick to the plan. You need years to see all of Scotland, anyway.

Hope that's usable advise!

[Sir William]

...Scottish roads in the highlands do not allow for high speed travel.It might say 50 miles on the sign post or map, but do not make the mistake of thinking you will do that in about an hour! Narrow twisty roads,traffic, fellow visitors, dawdling, looking at the view, people on the wrong side of the road(OH YES!),lorries and caravans that are impossible to overtake, sheep and cattle in the road,cyclists and the list goes on! Allow plenty of time anyway as you may need to stop often to admire the view.
....

I would second that for the Borders as well. The 18 mile B road between Hawick and Newcastleton took me about 45 minutes in daylight and about an hour in at night (no moon), though the locals seemed to do in half the time. On one side was usually a stone wall and on the other a ditch, which made it really interesting when a lorrie (truck) passed going the opposite direction, even with the occasional pullover to allow passing vehicles.

[Beertigger]

A few suggestions:

Go to Dumfries, stay at Ferintosh - can't beat the hospitality.

Go to Pitlochry, hike up through the woods to the Black Spout and Edradour Distillery (smallest in Scotland). Lunch at the Moulin Inn. Beautiful.

Hootenany's in Inverness is indeed a hoot - great traditional music enjoyed by a crowd of all ages.

[Urchurdan]

My top five favourite places to visit (At the moment):-

1. Culloden Moor (although it always makes me cry)

2. The Clootie Well on the Black Isle

3. Flora MacDonalds grave in Skye

4. Stirling Castle

5. The Wallace Monument

Och, you asked for 5 - my head is spinning with places to visit - I haven't even got round to more modern items, like the Forth Bridge, or the Falkirk Wheel. Going even further back in time, there is the Roman Antonine Wall and associated forts. A lot depends on which part of Scotland's history you are interested in, or if you are going to try to get a flavour of it all.
I have to squeeze in another great place to visit, especially if your interest lies in the Jacobite era, the Monument at Glenfinnan where Prince Charles Edward Stuart raised his Standard on Scottish soil...


I hope you have a great visit...