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15th September 09, 08:13 PM
#1
Question on swords
This is a two-part question.
Part 1:
I have come into possession of a good quality basket hilt. There is a little rust at the tip and I want to know the proper way of removing the rust without damaging the blade. I also would like to know of tips to keeping the blade clean and rust-free.
Part 2:
Is there any historical example of a one-handed claymore? I know of the huge two-handed, 5 ft. long claymores, but are there any museum pieces of smaller, one-handed ones?
Thanks guys.
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15th September 09, 08:18 PM
#2
as for cleaning the tip... I have always been told to use a very fine steel wool and buff it out...then keep a bit of oil on the blade..light coat..
“Don’t judge each day by the harvest you reap, but by the seeds you plant.”
– Robert Louis Stevenson
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15th September 09, 09:35 PM
#3
Scotchbrite pads work great assuming it isn't highly polished. As for clean and rust free just keep it very lightly oiled and it should be fine.
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15th September 09, 09:48 PM
#4
Originally Posted by beloitpiper
This is a two-part question.
Part 1:
I have come into possession of a good quality basket hilt. There is a little rust at the tip and I want to know the proper way of removing the rust without damaging the blade. I also would like to know of tips to keeping the blade clean and rust-free.
Part 2:
Is there any historical example of a one-handed claymore? I know of the huge two-handed, 5 ft. long claymores, but are there any museum pieces of smaller, one-handed ones?
Thanks guys.
Part 1: Before you set about removing the rust with steel wool, first ascertain that the blade isn't plated. If it is, or if you are not sure, then the best way to proceed would be to scrape the rust off with an old credit card. The plastic is tougher than the rust, but not hard enough to scratch the blade. Use a light oil-- 3-in-1, etc.-- and carefully scrape toward the tip of the blade. With patience you should be able to remove the rust, unless it is quite severe. In that instance I would suggest using a very fine jewelers rouge and a thick polishing cloth, being careful not to damage the rest of the blade. Again, polish toward the tip of the blade, and avoid scrubbing at it with "back and forth" strokes.
When finished, wash the blade with liquid detergent. Rinse it off, being careful to keep the blade pointed down so no water can seep into the hilt. Dry the bade carefully with a thick cloth and then let it air dry over night. In the morning check it carefully for any signs of rust and then apply a thin coat of oil to the blade. Check the condition of the blade every thirty days, and at that time apply another thin coat of oil.
Part 2: Yes, there are examples of one-handed "claymores" that date from the 15th century. In fact, they are the precursors of what we think of as the traditional, two-handed Highland claymore, which are by and large an invention of the 16th century--
Hope that answers you questions!
Last edited by MacMillan of Rathdown; 16th September 09 at 11:46 AM.
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15th September 09, 10:51 PM
#5
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16th September 09, 03:11 AM
#6
I stick rusty ferrous metal into really strong tea for an hour or so, really bad I leave overnight - the tannin seems to react with it, but they are all working for their living items, not flashy show off stuff so I am not certain you would be pleased with the results. My concept of cleaned and polished might not meet your standards.
I find the image of the swords stuck into or touching the ground really unsettling. It feels so wrong and I can't think why - well it might make the tips go rusty, but it is verging on superstitious dread.
Maybe the soul of the blade will seep away into the earth, or perhaps something unkind will climb into it.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
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16th September 09, 08:55 AM
#7
Thanks guys! The sword is really nice. High carbon, unplated, well made, etc. But I think the previous owner had it stuck in the ground, as Anne feared.
I ask about the short claymore because of a painting of MacDonald.
See, the sword looks like a claymore but is also significantly shorter than (what I think) a claymore should be. Just wondering if something like this is real.
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16th September 09, 09:29 AM
#8
Greg
Congratulations on the sword, I'd have to say I've got no experience with this so I'll leave the rust removal to the experts. I hope you'll consider putting photos in this thread:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...526/index.html
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16th September 09, 12:09 PM
#9
Greg - out of interest are there any markings at the top of the blade just under the basket? That's where maker's typically put their marks.
brian
In a democracy it's your vote that counts; in feudalism, it's your Count that votes.
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16th September 09, 01:02 PM
#10
Not everyone swings a big claymore
Originally Posted by beloitpiper
Thanks guys! The sword is really nice. High carbon, unplated, well made, etc. But I think the previous owner had it stuck in the ground, as Anne feared.
I ask about the short claymore because of a painting of MacDonald.
See, the sword looks like a claymore but is also significantly shorter than (what I think) a claymore should be. Just wondering if something like this is real.
There are two types of two handed swords encountered in Scotland; the large two handed sword (quite often with clam shell guards) which was popular in the Lowlands until the 17th century, and the Highland two handed sword with its characteristic drooping cross guard terminating in an open quatrefoil at each end. It is generally agreed that these developed from the smaller Highland swords. These Highland two-handed swords are somewhat smaller than the Lowland varieties, which accounts for the size of the sword in the MacIain print. Like the Lowland sword these "claidheamhmors" remained in use until the 17th century.
The use of a Highland claymore in McIan's picture of the Lord of the Isles is probably anachronistic, but pretty much accurate as to its size. Most one-handed swords have blades that range in length from 30-34 inches while the blade of a Highland claymore would be about 10 inches longer. The hilt would add another 12-14 inches to the overall length of the sword. Generally speaking a Highland claymore would probably have been be something between 54 and 62 inches long from pommel to point. Writing in 1899, Lord Archibald Campbell described the example in Dunrobbin Castle, which dates from this period, as being in 5ft 1in in length and weighing in at just over 4.5 pounds.
These swords were made to suit the stature of a specific individual, and would have been no taller than the middle to top of the shoulder, at a time when most men would have been well under six foot in height.
The figure in the background (to the right of the sword) is seen with his hand resting on the hilt of a sword probably no larger than that held by McIan's Lord of the Isles, which should give you a better idea as to the size of the Highland claymore in relation to the men who used them.
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