Misbehaving Pleats on Modern Kilts

[Pleater]

I wonder if the rigidity of the fabric is forcing the pleats into a lampshade effect - that is pushing the lower part of the pleat (which should hang free and vertical) outwards to continue the flare of the fell.

If so then cutting out the back of the pleat and sewing along the lower edge of the fell, ensuring that the pleats hung vertically from that edge should cure the problem.

If such a drastic removal of material is not possible then cutting out a narrow Vee of material at the lower edge of the fell should work. It will shorten the inner part of the pleat - the shape would be a < with the point towards the visible fold of each pleat.

It is mechanically the same as making a dart - except that to leave the material in place would probably result in the darts being visible

Wool is malleable and can be pressed into shape, but other fibres resist alteration, insisting on remaining as flat as possible and I suspect that is your problem with these kilts.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[CommonHighrise]

Thanks all, very much, for the help. I think I have it figured out. I was measuring incorrectly for my fell. I was measuring my rump size with my legs together, however I normally stand with my legs shoulder-width. This was moving the widest point of my rump to a lower and wider position, causing the pleats to be put under tension at the top, and opening them up.

Letting the kilt out just a bit, and bringing the fell stitching down a little farther cured the problem.

Indeed, this art is more than folding and sewing, as I am learning the dynamics of hip movement can play a large role in how a kilt looks.

Also, the Cotton/spandex kilt project turned out great, as the fabric was only slightly elastic (90% cotton to 10% spandex).