Doublets

[MacLowlife]

I stand corrected, but I think the three button tartan waistcoat shown above with the red sheriffmuir is still pretty high in its closure. That is undisputably a great looking ensemble.


A 3 button waistcoat, as usually worn with a PC or dress mess, tends to be only about 5 or 6 inches high. Without a jabot to cover the "blank space", you'd have the closure of the Sheriffmuir at the top, and then a large blank expanse of shirtfront, then the waistcoat. By leaving the doublet unfastened, you lessen that ( unpleasant ) keyhole effect. Wearing a four in hand or ruche tie does the same thing.

I go back to Charles Thompson on the jabot with an exposed white shirtfront. He says it doesn't show well that way and I agree. I think the jabot looks best contrasted against a high waistcoat or a doublet front.

All of this is only opinion, of course. While I am at it, I will say again that the much touted "forgiving waistline" of the sheriffmuir only calls attention to a bay window by framing it in contrasting color. I think the solid closed front of a Kenmore, or better the keystone arrangement of buttons on a Montrose (drawing the eye up and out towards the broad shoulders) is a better way to conceal girth at the equator.

Lucky is the man who doesn't have to consider this!

[Bugbear]

Oh dear! One can wear a Sheriffmuir with a four-in-hand tie... That really is versital. Guess it would cover any evening situation for which one would dress up.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

MacLowlife,

I agree with your opinion both about the Sheriffmuir looking best with a high waistcoat, and about the Jabot looking best against a darker color background. Were I to wear either, that's the way I'd go, personally.

However, I posted the picture of the red Sheriffmuir to show that it can be worn otherwise, and in this case I think the ensemble looks better than I would have imagined. I can attest to the fact that the MacLean tartan waistcoat in the picture is indeed a three-button waistcoat, just like you'd wear with a Prince Charlie. I saw it in person. :-)

About the "expanding midsection" that people have been talking about, I don't think the point was that the Sheriffmuir looks better on a man of girth than other doublet styles. It's more that the Sheriffmuir is more forgiving in the fit towards the middle, and so the doublet that you bought when you were 30 with a 36" waist and 44" chest might still fit when you are 50 with a 44" waist and 44" chest. :-) You can't say the same with a Montrose or Kenmore.

[jmercier]

If i didnt already have a nice regulation doublet, I would probably get myself a sheriffmuir. The regulation doublet is a lot like a sheriffmuir but with lapells and three buttons up the side, but with the same flaps at the bottom and same cuffs. You've got more versitility with waistcoat choice with a sheriffmuir (as outlined above) than a regulation doublet mostly because a regulation doublet should usually be worn with a 3 button waistcoat , but not usually a five button waist coat. At least if you go by 'dressing tradition' =)

[JSFMACLJR]

Let me remind the readers that evening waistcoats do not have to have three buttons! I prefer four buttons, as may be seen in this photograph:

[jmercier]

True, they can be 4 buttons as well, it's really the 'style' rather than the actual number of buttons. 4 small buttons vs 3 slightly more spaced out buttons on the same style waist coat are the same 'waist coat' in terms of the type of jacket that it goes with.

[JSFMACLJR]

One of my doublets is based on a "regulation" doublet, but is cut a bit higher in the front. In my opinion, this doublet is perfect. I am considering having a Sheriffmuir doublet made in the future, to have another option to wear in the evening, but my doublet shown here can be worn with/without a waiscoat; with a black bow tie or white; or with a jabot. Waistcoat styles can vary, too.

[Bugbear]

Thinking about it, I like the look of the "U" shaped, scooped front waistcoats with four buttons.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

If i didnt already have a nice regulation doublet, I would probably get myself a sheriffmuir. The regulation doublet is a lot like a sheriffmuir but with lapells and three buttons up the side, but with the same flaps at the bottom and same cuffs. You've got more versitility with waistcoat choice with a sheriffmuir (as outlined above) than a regulation doublet mostly because a regulation doublet should usually be worn with a 3 button waistcoat , but not usually a five button waist coat. At least if you go by 'dressing tradition' =)

Emphasis above is mine. Just a reminder that, like most any style of jacket or doublet, you can have the Sheriffmuir made with different style cuffs. A while back I did a Google image search on "Sheriffmuir doublet" just to see what different people were offering, and about half I saw featured gauntlet cuffs, while half were made with Braemar cuffs. Both look nice, in my opinion.

[MacLowlife]

Thanks, Mr MacLean, for showing your velvet doublet. I hesitate to call it "red-faced", but that is what it is, isn't it? Other than striking, I mean...