Sheriffmuir Jacket from scratch (a DIY project)

**Bugbear** · 6th November 09, 07:40 AM

O, I understand now.

I'm still trying to figure out the fine details on the flaps.

Hope it all goes well.

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 6th November 09, 10:21 AM

I'll let you know how I make my flaps when I get to those and then you can judge from the pictures how it turned out.

I hope it does too.

I am making my second version today from a cheap fabric I picked up at an upholstry place. It is heavy and has a felted texture similar to a heavy coat wool, and it holds a nice crease when ironed, so I hope it will give me a good idea of how the wool suiting fabric will lay. This version will be taken to completion with sleeves, lining, collar and flaps.

**RB51** · 6th November 09, 10:47 AM

I don't sew things worth a hoot but I do admire craftmanship in others, and salute you for undertaking such a project. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Laurie

**Bugbear** · 6th November 09, 12:51 PM

Someone, a while back, was saying those flaps, tashes I think..., are on the doublet to resemble armor.

I've been trying to read through my book on Medieval armor to find out if there were flaps on Knight's armor that might be a little like the doublet flaps. I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for.

**Alan H** · 6th November 09, 05:12 PM

OK, this is some serious work. Good on ye.

**vorpallemur** · 6th November 09, 09:15 PM

Originally Posted by Hothir Ethelnor

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment so in my fitting and testing of the mockup I noted to extend the shoulder parts of the pattern to accommodate that.

(now to go finish fitting the collar and adjusting the front "lapel"...)

The doublet isn't a terribly tailored garment, but one from a good tailor, made for especially for the wearer, would certainly have padding in the low shoulder. It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you. And final fitting would be done with the very nearly finished garment, on the owner, if they could manage.

**Dixiecat** · 10th November 09, 08:26 PM

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment

au contraire. I would imagine that it didn't specify padding because it wasn't a book about fitting, but a book about military patterns.

The heavy fabric for your second fitting is a very good idea. Don't forget the padding especially in the shoulders, even if your shoulders are equal. Not all padding is for fitting, shoulder padding in heavy coats is to help support and shape the fabric to help distribute the weight. The heavier the fabric and the longer the coat, the more support it needs on and off the body.

Please don't take any of our advice as criticism. I think you're doing an awesome job.

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 10th November 09, 08:54 PM

I'm not about to get offended.

I will pad the shoulders.

I hope to get back to this project this week I am working on some other stuff as well (wedding video, sporran, maple leaf kilt pleated to the sett...) It all kinda adds up.

I'll have another update with pictures of the skirts/flaps/pockets or whatever the term for them really is, tomorrow.

**fluter** · 10th November 09, 10:59 PM

Great work! I'm all eyes. Dixiecat, thanks for the tips and observations...
P.S. nice tartan, too.

**Heming** · 10th November 09, 11:40 PM

Originally Posted by vorpallemur

It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you.

The side back seams (princess seams) are areas like that. In addition to stay stitching the straight parts, try shrinking the curve on the side piece. Sew two rows of basting (I do this by machine) through one layer only just outside the seam line and another just inside. Tighten the threads on the wrong side to shrink the seam line slightlywithout wrinkling or puckering. Press well to set and then sew up your garment. Makes a big difference.

Shoulder pads would be made from large pieces of thin fleece or heavy felt, layered and shaped, and would go down onto your shoulder blade in the back and down to your chest in the front.

But I'd use modern ones, set slightly into the sleeves. Make sure to get the "male evening coat" version. And I would use some light to medium fusible interfacing in the fronts (unless you have experience with canvas interfacing).

Keep up the good work!