Sheriffmuir Jacket from scratch (a DIY project)

[Heming]

It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you.

The side back seams (princess seams) are areas like that. In addition to stay stitching the straight parts, try shrinking the curve on the side piece. Sew two rows of basting (I do this by machine) through one layer only just outside the seam line and another just inside. Tighten the threads on the wrong side to shrink the seam line slightlywithout wrinkling or puckering. Press well to set and then sew up your garment. Makes a big difference.

Shoulder pads would be made from large pieces of thin fleece or heavy felt, layered and shaped, and would go down onto your shoulder blade in the back and down to your chest in the front.

But I'd use modern ones, set slightly into the sleeves. Make sure to get the "male evening coat" version. And I would use some light to medium fusible interfacing in the fronts (unless you have experience with canvas interfacing).

Keep up the good work!