Spencer Tuxedo from Tailcoat

[triolamj]

I need a new kilt jacket that 1) fits, 2) makes me look good, and 3) is light enough for Texas weather so that I can wear it in the early fall and late spring. I've ruled out getting another Argyll: my shoulders and back are too broad so I need a waist-length jacket and in a lighter fabric even than denim twill (which is lighter than Barathea). I've previously fitted my son out with a Spencer jacket and vest so I know the look works. However, finding a Spencer in my size (50R - 54L) with a matching vest is just not going to happen. So I've decided to buy a formal tailcoat and matching vest in my size and have the tails taken off.

The part where I need advice is: What's the difference between polyester and tropical wool worsted besides price? What kind of problems am I looking at with the tailoring or the tailor. Has anyone else out there ever done this, this way? Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about BestTuxedo.com or UniformalWearhouse.com when it comes to sizing? Any advice on adding epaulets and replacing buttons?

Don't be shy, rain it down on me.

[sydnie7]

I'd stay away from polyester in warm climate. IMHO a wool of the same weight would feel cooler (or at least less warm) because it breathes better than the poly.

Adding epaulettes is fairly easy, both Star and I have posted pix showing the process. Similarly there are several threads discussing button sources, I like Three Feathers Pewter but there are many others as well.

Good luck with this!

[Zardoz]

Polyester will be hotter than wool down here. Items I've got from Uniformal Wearhouse have been true to size. Get with me on the tailoring, my friend Sin can do that for you.

[MacLowlife]

Do consider having the back curve into a gentle point, rather than a straight line - it's just that little bit more elegant. I vote for wool over poly, too.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Go with the wool, for all the reasons stated above. Rather than alter a tails coat you might want to consider going to Marlow White (www.marlowwhite.com) and purchasing a Navy or USCG CPO mess jacket. In the long run, for a total of $219.00 + shipping, it may prove to be the better buy.

Finally, if it were me, I'd skip the epauletts, but replace the buttons.

[triolamj]

I had already price-shopped them looking for a mess jacket for a friend and their prices were too high. The US Navy / PHS mess jacket is down to a decent price but I'm too portly for that look to work and the dark navy blue won't go with my formal kilt. For the same money, I could get another J. Higgins Argyll in a 54 Long and solve one of my problems. I see that they have spruce green Ike jackets which would have been great for my buddy except for the 10 jacket minimum on the order. Oh, well.

[triolamj]

I like the square Celtic buttons as opposed to the diamond-shaped thistle ones. For this jacket though I have a full set plus some of round silver Irish harp buttons purchased from Scotland. Zardoz ended up with the first set I bought that had an olive cast that didn't show up in pictures. The question is: Should I just attach them like a satin button or should I ask for buttonholes to hide the shank and back them with retainer rings so that they can be removed.

On another note: When I originally purchased my Argyll from J. Higgins, I requested that they replace the two right-hand buttons with buttonholes so that I could button up the Argyll and avoid wearing a vest or cumberbund. The buttons were square and the buttonholes were the same width as the buttons . . . which makes it very tough to button up the jacket. Make sure that you ask for buttonholes at least an 1/8 or 1/4 inch larger than the button UNLESS it's round.

[triolamj]

You've mentioned Sin to me before and I know Sandy is up to her eyeballs in work. I had a project for Sandy but I think my sister Maggie might be willing to take it on for my birthday. I'll have to have you introduce me to Sin. I need to know the cost so I can figure out just how much I want done. Removing the tails for certain and placing and replacing buttons on the jacket and the vest. If I can get away with it I may go for a pair of tiny reinforced buttonholes near the shoulder seam where I can pin a plaid brooch through instead of needing epaulets. I'm also thinking of using the material of the tails for guantlet cuffs like the ones on my Argyll. My budget is about $225 which includes the jacket, the vest, and the tailoring. I think your reasoning on the wool is right and unlike the polyester if it ever gets damaged, I can probably get it reweaved. Thanks.

[triolamj]

I forgot to put this in the first post: 4) Since I'm Irish, if it doesn't look traditionally Scottish, that's not necessarily a bad thing. Hence, the round Irish buttons though I do love the square Celtic ones. And my heart won't be broken if it takes awhile to sell my Argyll to fund my Spencer, if I sell it at all. I already have one set of Scottish and one set of Irish regalia; having 2 jackets won't kill me.