Origin and Use of "Dress" Tartans

[figheadair]

Matt,

A little more on the Christina Young plaid. Brian Wilton (STA) confirmed its dimentions as two lengths 37 inches wide making a total size of 15ft 7 inches by 6ft 2 inches. Irrespective of what it was used for this confirms the CY plaid’s uniqueness. 37 inches is an extraordinary width at a time when 26 inches was far more common and was that that often used for joined plaids. The material is wider that any other surviving specimen of rural weaving before about 1850, perhaps later. It means that the loom must have had a beam of around 40 inches at least - quite a large loom for a traditional highland house. Technically that is challenging weaving on a pre-Flying Shuttle loom and unless CY had arms like Goliath could have only been done either by having two weavers on the bench or one thrower shifting their position between each throw and catch of the shuttle. Should anyone be interested, when I’ve had a chance to examine the cloth again I’ll be able to confirm the epi, roughly how much yarn was used and which way round it was woven.

You mentioned that you saw no reason why a plaid intended for clothing wouldn’t have been initialled and dated. I suppose I look at it the other way around, from a weaver’s view point, and ask myself why would I go to the extra bother for something that’s not going to be seen? It just doesn’t make sense. I only know of three other examples besides the CY plaid that are initialed and/or dated. Two of them I would say without doubt were domenstic blankets and the other is only a portion so it’s diffiult to know what size the original piece was. The family tradition srrounding the CY plaid is that it was worven by CY to commemorate her marriage (to Capt Arbuthnott) and was used on special occasions to decorate the table. How true this is I cannot say but there is very little wear on the plaid and no evidence of staining to the ecru (unbleached white) areas suggesting that it was not used as clothing. It’s also quite a heavy piece that’s relatively soft compared with much of the hard tartan of the period so it would have soaked up the rain and become saturated very quickly.

One can never be certain but IMHO the size of the piece, and weave structure make it very unlikely that this plaid was ever intended for dress. Given the unique size of the web, length of time it must have taken to spin, dye and weave, and the family tradition concerning its origin I’m inclined to the view that this was a sort of dowry piece that would have had pride of place in the house, perhaps on or around the bed. This does not mean that other plaids of predominately white so called ‘blanket patterns’ were not worn as arisaids. We simple don’t know and the origin of the claim appears to be Martin Martin which is slightly concerning to me as he was also the source for sett sticks and got that (again IMHO) completely wrong. But I digress.

Peter

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Peter,

Thanks for your post - you have the advantage of having examined the original, which certainly gives you a better perspective.

Regarding the sixteenth century quote about Highland men sleeping in their plaids, I was referring specifically to Bishop Lesley's account of 1578, where he writes, "His solis noctu involuti suaviter dormiebant," which McClintock translates as, "Wrapped up in these for their only covering, they would sleep comfortably."

Granted, this is no evidence that lady's arisaides would be used as bedcovers some 150 years later, or even than men's plaids were used as bedcovers at the time. It only suggests that some men slept in their plaids sometimes (as you said, outdoors, more than likely). But I do suggest that this, and a few other early accounts of men sleeping outdoors in their plaids, may be the origin of the idea that plaids in general were used as bedclothes.

I still have a notion in my mind that I have read somewhere of arisaides specifically being used as bedcovers in the home, but it's certainly not in McClintock, and until I can find where it was, I wouldn't give it much credence. Could simply be a product of my cluttered mind. :-)

I also noted with interest your mention of the CY arisaide being made from rather heavy cloth. Most of the contemporary descriptions of lady's plaides (related in McClintock) mention specifically the fact that they were light and fine. So I suppose this would be yet another reason to suggest it had some other purpose.

[figheadair]

Peter,

I also noted with interest your mention of the CY arisaide being made from rather heavy cloth. Most of the contemporary descriptions of lady's plaides (related in McClintock) mention specifically the fact that they were light and fine. So I suppose this would be yet another reason to suggest it had some other purpose.

That to rings bells with me. I've seen a number of old specimens that were very fine hard tartan in plain weave and I wonder if these would have been for women's use. Plain weave certainly not ideal for men's plaids where a structurally stronger cloth is best for general outdoor use - hence why denim was used for jeans.