traditional vs. classic

[Tobus]

I have a question for the experts out there. I am fascinated by this picture (as with most of the portraits from that collection):




My interest here is on the fellow at the right side of the picture. He's wearing the Colquhoun tartan, which is why he caught my eye. I notice that he's got a basket hilt sword and what looks to be a targe on his left arm. The rest of his wardrobe seems to be military style stuff as well. Aside from the weapons, would this have been limited to men in military service, or was it common to see men dressed like this in civilian life?

But the real question I have is what kind of hat is he wearing? It's not a Balmoral, Glengarry, Tam O'Shanter, or anything else I'm familiar with. Is it strictly a military piece of headgear, or would this have been commonly seen as well?

[Jock Scot]

I have a question for the experts out there. I am fascinated by this picture (as with most of the portraits from that collection):




My interest here is on the fellow at the right side of the picture. He's wearing the Colquhoun tartan, which is why he caught my eye. I notice that he's got a basket hilt sword and what looks to be a targe on his left arm. The rest of his wardrobe seems to be military style stuff as well. Aside from the weapons, would this have been limited to men in military service, or was it common to see men dressed like this in civilian life?

But the real question I have is what kind of hat is he wearing? It's not a Balmoral, Glengarry, Tam O'Shanter, or anything else I'm familiar with. Is it strictly a military piece of headgear, or would this have been commonly seen as well?

I think we are in danger for falling into the trap that the artist may have intended. I do not believe for one second that the attire worn by the gentlemen in this and other like pictures was normal daywear for Scots, even well to do ones. These pictures should be regarded as nothing else than trying to "sell" the romance of Scotland. We can all dig out our Sunday best,or a Dress uniform and pose for a picture, but we all know that is not and never will be, normal wear.

I think the hat in question is known as a "hummel".

[CMcG]

Jock Scot's point is right in line with one of my main questions in this thread. While I love looking at old pictures, seeing "romanticized" Highland attire, and marveling at military or piper's uniforms, I don't want to dress that way in my modern civilian life. I do, however, want to have an informed and respectful grasp of tradition.

Let's talk specifics. Obviously weapons are out, but what else should be avoided when it comes to the historical representations of Highland attire shown above?

[HeathBar]

Obviously weapons are out, but what else should be avoided when it comes to the historical representations of Highland attire shown above?

Using the picture in the previous posts, plaids of any size and cross belts. Unless, of course, you are a piper.

[creagdhubh]

Using the picture in the previous posts, plaids of any size and cross belts. Unless, of course, you are a piper.

One could most certainly wear the 'shoulder' plaid with day wear. All this is, is a pipers plaid, unpleated, folded length wise, then folded in half and folded again, and thrown loosely over the left shoulder. One could also wear it like a piper's plaid, yet with no brooch-just wrapped across the chest, around the back, and the 'tails' thrown over the left shoulder. The plaid looks best with purled fringing-not the typical finging you see with fly plaids.

[mull]

[QUOTE=creagdhubh;851902]One could most certainly wear the 'shoulder' plaid with day wear.

I love the look of plaid, but fear that it would be the piece that sends the entire outfit over the line of dress, into the realm of costume.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

One could most certainly wear the 'shoulder' plaid with day wear.

I love the look of plaid, but fear that it would be the piece that sends the entire outfit over the line of dress, into the realm of costume.

I tend to agree, but think that it also depends on where one lives. I don't think a shoulder plaid looks out of place in Auchterader, but it does take on certain "theatrical airs" in Arizona.

[creagdhubh]

[QUOTE=mull;852627]

One could most certainly wear the 'shoulder' plaid with day wear.

I love the look of plaid, but fear that it would be the piece that sends the entire outfit over the line of dress, into the realm of costume.

I disagree completely. The use of a shoulder plaid, also called a 'blanket' plaid, which seems to be a double negative to me as plaid means 'blanket' in Gaelic, is no where near the realm of costume. Now, of course when you see gents wearing a plaid, complete with brooch, a targe, a broadsword, loose fitting, old style shirt, etc, for day wear at a games or wherever, I would most definitely consider that a costume and very separate from traditional Highland attire for the daytime. The shoulder plaid was worn quiet a bit in the mid to late 19th-century, without a brooch-it was also very popular throughout the 20th-century (especially by clan elders) and into today.

You often see clan chiefs, chieftains, and some clansmen wearing them today. My grandfather wore one all the time while attending Highland games and parades, and when not in use, he threw it over his favorite leather chair in his study at his home, because really, all it is, is quite simply a blanket of varied length with fringe at opposite ends (like a piper's plaid, except having no pleats). I plan to wear the shoulder plaid with my argyll jackets and balmoral bonnet at Highland games and gatherings, once I invest in the tartan material and have the purled fringing done of course! I think they look very smart with daywear and a nice cromach (sheperd's crook). Take wee peek at the examples below.


The gentlemen above are (from left to right) Euan Macpherson of Glentruim, Chieftain of the Glentruim Macphersons, Sir William Macpherson of Cluny and Blairgowrie, 27th Chief of the Clan Macpherson, and Alastair Macpherson of Pitmain, Chieftain of the Pitmain Macphersons. Notice the large shoulder plaid that Euan is wearing. I think it looks absolutely wonderful with his daywear attire. Also take notice of Cluny's Scottish Wildcat sporran-I have personally inspected it close up and it is a marvelous specimen from the 19th-century. I do not like Pitmain's wearing of argyll hose, done in the Pitmain tartan colors, with daywear, but hey, he is a gentleman and a Chieftain of a prominent branch of the Clan Macpherson, who am I to judge or say anything?! To each is own, right?!


Another photo of Euan (on the left) at the Clan Macpherson gathering held every August in Badenoch.


XXIV Chief of the Clan Cameron (Lochiel) wearing a shoulder plaid-worn very similar to Euan Macpherson of Glentruim.


XXV Chief of the Clan Cameron (Lochiel) wearing a shoulder plaid.


An excellent example of the shoulder plaid-appropriate for daywear. Notice the XXVI Chief of Clan Cameron (Lochiel), wearing his plaid without a brooch pinned through to his argyll jacket, as that would indeed make it more of a costume in my opinion, or basically just would look out of place, not neccessarily costume like. Also note the two different shades of Cameron tartans; he uses the modern hue for his plaid, and the ancient hue for his kilt. He also wears a lovely Pine Marten sporran. I have seen this done before with the Clan Donald Chiefs and Chieftains.

[creagdhubh]

I think we are in danger for falling into the trap that the artist may have intended. I do not believe for one second that the attire worn by the gentlemen in this and other like pictures was normal daywear for Scots, even well to do ones. These pictures should be regarded as nothing else than trying to "sell" the romance of Scotland. We can all dig out our Sunday best,or a Dress uniform and pose for a picture, but we all know that is not and never will be, normal wear.

I think the hat in question is known as a "hummel".

I completely agree with Jock Scot. I have an undergraduate degree in fine art and am an accomplished oil potrait painter and have analyzed Macleay's work for around 7 years. His portraits of the Highlanders are indeed impressive, however, one who is looking at them for inspiration and ideas with regards to the wearing of their own Highland attire should use steady caution. I would agree that there are certain elements from the Highlanders presented that could be pulled out and used in today's wearing of Highland dress-mainly ideas for the fullest of full dress for evening wear. You have to remember, Macleay painted those portraits in the 19th-century, during the reign of HRH Queen Victoria, it was the style back then for Highlanders, with some wealth or stature, or retainers of the Queen herself, to wear all kinds of items such as pistols, broadswords, targes, huge plaids, horsehair sporrans, etc. Some of which you could most certainly adapt and wear today. However, you also have to understand that each specific Highlander was a representation of a Highland clan, which means there is no doubt that the respected Chief of each clan would want his men that sat for the portrait to look their best in all of their finery. The book ('The Highlanders of Scotland'-which is presently hard to fine-Haggerston Press) actuallly has a written portion that describes how much money it took for the models to prepare for their portraits-written in the 19th-century by Amelia MacGregor.

[OC Richard]

...no doubt that the respected Chief of each clan would want his men that sat for the portrait to look their best in all of their finery.

This gives the impression that all the men are dressed in elaborate Highland costume. Many are, but many others are in quite plain dress.

Of the 56 kilted figures, 24 are in the "Celtic" jackets so popular at that time, but 21 are in plain "day" jackets.

Absolutely plain grey tweed day jackets, plain Balmorals and Glengarries, plain hose, and ordinary Oxford shoes are not what comes to mind when we speak of these men being dressed in "finery".