Scotland Forever's Adventures in Kilt Buying (Advice Wanted)

**Scotland Forever** · 17th February 10, 10:51 PM

I'm near the end of researching a kilt outfit for my wedding in the beginning of May. However, I'd like some advice from my fellow XMarkers.

I've decided that I want to wear a Modern Black Stewart kilt & Regulation Doublet w/ 5 button vest. Topping this off w/ a Tux shirt/cravat, GB or Glenfinnan shoes w/ cream? hose & black flashes. I haven't decided on the sporran yet... maybe a light color to help balance against all the black.

I've kind of painted myself into a corner as I was set with my old kiltmaker, then added 2 or 3 kiltmakers since perusing this site and digging around on the net. I'm looking for some advice/reviews of kiltmakers that I'm considering.

My previous kiltmaker is Geoffrey (Tailor), and I have a Modern Hunting Stewart tartan with knife pleats (to sett). Since my family falls under the Stewarts, I am now going with the Black Stewart, pleated to Sett.

I'm not so much worried about price as I am having the garment Made in Scotland, hand stitched and a quality wool. These factors as well as the reputation of the kiltmakers themselves should prove to make my purchase not only a great item to wear on my wedding day, but for many years to come.

Here's my rundown of the kiltmakers I'm considering:

- Geoffrey (Tailor) [$665.41]: The kilt I had made 10 years ago is still in great shape. It's comfortable (16oz), sits right at my waist (navel) and has that 'swagger' in the back that says it all

- Kinloch Anderson [$981.75]: A great reputation and supplies kilts to the Royal family. Seems a little high in price for a fully handmade kilt - Perhaps that's the price of admission to wear a kilt from the 'Royal Kiltmaker'.

- Manley Richardson, through ScotWeb [$717.10]: I really like the detail on their buckles and straps as well as the amount of fringe on the side. The only downer I see here is their kilts look a little long in the waist. I suppose you can tell them to only make it to the waist w/out the typical 2" 'raise'.

- Mackenzie Frain [$618.47]: I saw MacMillan of Rathdown's review of their Regulation Doublet. I'll be purchasing my RD from them as well based on his review and the few photos on their site. Does anyone know anything about their kilts? I like the sound of their shoes too. I might get a set of their '1299 Ghillie Brogues' or their new 'Glenfinnan Shoe'.

I'm leaning towards the Mackenzie Frain full outfit, since they'll be making my RD. Any feedback for them (and the others) is greatly appreciated.

**Phil** · 18th February 10, 01:32 AM

I cannot speak for any of your choices other than that I could not recommend Kinloch Anderson from personal experience. If you want a really top class outfit and are not troubled by cost then go here - http://www.stewart-christie.com/ - where you will get superb bespoke tailoring. Anywhere else is just "off the peg" believe me.

**HeathBar** · 18th February 10, 05:08 AM

From your description, it sounds like you are going with some top of the line items. But you mentioned cream hose. I think you would look much better with colored hose or even diced hose. We have a few vendors here that can provide diced hose at a reasonable price.

**Jock Scot** · 18th February 10, 05:08 AM

Have you tried "Chisholms of Inverness"? Another bespoke kilt maker of the highest repute.

**davidlpope** · 18th February 10, 05:10 AM

I'd urge you to strongly consider our own Barb Tewksbury. Read MoR's review of a recent kilt she made for him here:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/r...x.html?t=49479

You'd be dealing directly with the kiltmaker and wouldn't have to pay import duties, etc.

Cordially,

David

**Paul** · 18th February 10, 05:12 AM

Kinloch Anderson have great quality, but from my experience they charge around 2.5x what everyone else does for the exact same service and made by the exact same skill of maker. Other places such as Geoffrey (Tailor) offer the same service, though, once again - they charge a bit more than most.
I think you should also check out Slanj. They are mid-range price-wise, though, I feel my kilt from them is the best quality I have witnessed so far. Your kilt would be £300 - which is only $468 by reason of the pound being worth slightly less at the moment. I'm sure there are plenty of others who would recommend Slanj also.

Check out www.slanjkilts.com

**davidlpope** · 18th February 10, 05:14 AM

Originally Posted by Scotland Forever

Regulation Doublet w/ 5 button vest.

For what it's worth, the regulation doublet is traditionally worn with a low-cut waistcoat, the Sherriffmuir with the higher, "5 button" waistcoat. I'm not sure how mixing the two would look. Usually the lines of the jacket lapels harmonize with the top edge of the waistcoat, hence the RD/lower waistcoat pairing.

Cordially,

David

**Paul** · 18th February 10, 05:20 AM

Originally Posted by Jock Scot

Have you tried "Chisholms of Inverness"? Another bespoke kilt maker of the highest repute.

Jock, I popped into Chisholms when I was in Inverness and the kilts seemed great, though as far as I can remember their kilts are around £500. This seems a little over-priced to me, especially since fully hand-stiched kilts are available from military and ex-military kilmakers for around 3/5 of this.
Also - all the stock accessories were more expensive than elsewhere.

**ForresterModern** · 18th February 10, 06:41 AM

Those vendors you have chosen are certainly top end marketing retailers who should be able to fit you into very high quality products, but at a matching high price.

As stated above there are US or Canadian kiltmakers on the forum (Barb T, Matt Newsome, Bonnie Heather, Lady Chrystal, Keltoi, Norcalpiper only to name a few) as well as off the forum (JHiggins and Kathy Lare) and some of our advertisers here who can all provide you with the same level of service and quality in a full handsewn kilt for prices at least comparable if not significantly less than those you have quoted, and as stated above they are all (save Lady Chrystal) on this side of the pond, so you don't have to get worried about paying the inevitable 17.5% import duty on high priced items coming from Scotland. I can personally vouch for JHiggins, Barb T and Bonnie Heather, and am expeciting in the next week or so to be able to vouch for Keltoi (Ancient Caledonia Kingussie 16oz handewn should be coming soon). Some independents have longer wait times than others, depending on the tartan and who is in front of you, but Black Stewart should not be a difficult or expensive tartan to find, so at least that is a positive factor in the equation. If you are looking at the beginning of May you had better decide quickly because most kiltmakers with any kind of reputation have a good 8-12 week wait time, so you better start calling around and talking to them on-on one to nail down a timeline.

I would expect Barb T's list to be greater than 8 weeks, Matts possibly greater than 8 weeks depending on what build you are looking for, Keltoi's is 16 weeks right now as stated on his web page. Norcalpiper/Josh at Skyehighlandoutfitters has their premium handsewn 8yd available in Black Stewart at $399US and , although he does not specify turnaround times for handsewns, I would expect it to be 8 weeks or less. The others you would have to contact independently and directly.

I cannot comment about the doublets as I have no experience or specific knowledge in that area. Mac or Jock or Phil or Sandy or one of the pipers may be better at helping you there.

Cream hose (not white) would be acceptable at that level of dress but you would be better with colored or tartan or diced hose at that level.

Good luck and congratulations.

jeff

**Jock Scot** · 18th February 10, 07:22 AM

Originally Posted by Paul.

Jock, I popped into Chisholms when I was in Inverness and the kilts seemed great, though as far as I can remember their kilts are around £500. This seems a little over-priced to me, especially since fully hand-stiched kilts are available from military and ex-military kilmakers for around 3/5 of this.
Also - all the stock accessories were more expensive than elsewhere.

This is interesting and I would welcome your observations , as I think you are in the" business" so to speak. Now, I know it is bad form to "knock" your competitors, so can you answer me this? Are you comparing the prices like for like, for example a sporran made by A and sold at Chisholms for X; is that same sporran made by A for sale for Z elsewhere ? Particularly with the accessories. I am not planning a trade war here and I fully understand that prices differ for a variety of reasons, but I would be interested nonetheless.