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  1. #11
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    I did the conversion for my better half's kilt jacket (ex sports coat from charity shop). I did it all by hand so that I could make the seams invisible both from the right and wrong sides.

    It's not very difficult, but you'll need a good, thin needle, a thimble, and a piece of wax. And the best pressing iron you can get!

    Btw when it comes to irons, "good" means "heavy".

    Heming
    Vin gardu pro la sciuroj!

  2. #12
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    5th September 05
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    One question and an observation:

    When you're talking about using the iron, do we need to make the distinction between "ironing" (iron in motion) and "pressing" (iron held in place)?

    The observation is about pins. I started trying to get used to the sewing machine again the other day and pinned up some fabric with pins that I bought in a plastic blister pack from a big box store...I won't use the brand name on the pins but it rhymes with "winger". Did they suck! I understand your advice to use good pins...but how the hell does a manufacturer screw up pins? They would seem to be a pretty simple piece of engineering...how can they manage to make bad ones? What a world!

    Best

    AA

  3. #13
    Join Date
    19th May 08
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    Quote Originally Posted by auld argonian View Post
    One question and an observation:

    When you're talking about using the iron, do we need to make the distinction between "ironing" (iron in motion) and "pressing" (iron held in place)?

    The observation is about pins. I started trying to get used to the sewing machine again the other day and pinned up some fabric with pins that I bought in a plastic blister pack from a big box store...I won't use the brand name on the pins but it rhymes with "winger". Did they suck! I understand your advice to use good pins...but how the hell does a manufacturer screw up pins? They would seem to be a pretty simple piece of engineering...how can they manage to make bad ones? What a world!

    Best

    AA
    The decline in quality of sewing pins has not gone unnoticed here, either. And you do know not to actually run them through the sewing machine, right? Pull each pin as it approaches the presser foot, else you risk many broken needles and associated issues with debris in the bobbin area.

    If you do use fusible webbing or tape for some project, yes, it needs to be pressed with iron held in one place, then lifted and moved to the next area. If in doubt about the process or its effect on the fabric, test it on a small scrap or hidden seam of garment -- bubbling, shine, puckering are all risks you run. A pressing cloth (something as simple as a flour-sack type dish cloth) can help avoid shine.
    Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].

  4. #14
    Join Date
    14th August 07
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    When you're talking about using the iron, do we need to make the distinction between "ironing" (iron in motion) and "pressing" (iron held in place)?

    This is simple. When you're discussing sewing, ironing ALWAYS means pressing. The other is done when you're doing laundry.

    Btw, as a side note, if you're buying needles for your sewing machine, don't use Singer sewing machine needles unless your sewing machine is either a) an older Singer, or b) and older machine that was made by Singer. REGARDLESS of what the packaging says!!!!

    Why? Singer sewing machine needles are a mm (millimetre) longer than other brands. While this is perfect for Singer machines, this extra length can interfere with other brand sewing machines' shuttle timing. This makes crappy stitches, skipped stitches, bad lower tension, etc.

    I highly recommend Organ brand or Schmetz brand sewing machine needles. Newer Singer's are made to work with these brands.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    12th May 09
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    Southwest Missouri
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dixiecat View Post

    Btw, as a side note, if you're buying needles for your sewing machine, don't use Singer sewing machine needles unless your sewing machine is either a) an older Singer, or b) and older machine that was made by Singer. REGARDLESS of what the packaging says!!!!

    Why? Singer sewing machine needles are a mm (millimetre) longer than other brands. While this is perfect for Singer machines, this extra length can interfere with other brand sewing machines' shuttle timing. This makes crappy stitches, skipped stitches, bad lower tension, etc.

    I highly recommend Organ brand or Schmetz brand sewing machine needles. Newer Singer's are made to work with these brands.
    Maybe that explains a lot of things. Can you quantify older?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    19th May 08
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozark Ridge Rider View Post
    Maybe that explains a lot of things. Can you quantify older?
    I've run into this statement before. Here's something I just dug up:

    "Singer did make the models: 206, 306 & 319 that did use a different length needle."

    This is according to Terry, who further says: "I worked for Singer for 10 years, had my own repair business for another 10 years. Other makes entertained, but would rather stick to Singers of the older vintage. If you machine is newer than 1992, please do not ask me, as I am not up to speed on machines after that era. You might try the web site I have, to see if I do offer any advice there, but the focus in on those listed above. Feel free to visit my site: http://www.tandtrepair.com Kind Regards - Terry"

    All copied from here.
    Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].

  7. #17
    Join Date
    29th January 06
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    The repairman that worked on my commercial Singer told me he never recommends Singer needles for any Singer machine. He swears by the Schmetz needles, and since switching to them I don't think I have broken a single needle, even when punching through multiple layers of canvas.
    Kilted Teacher and Wilderness Ranger and proud member of Clan Donald, USA
    Happy patron of Jack of the Wood Celtic Pub and Highland Brewery in beautiful, walkable, and very kilt-friendly Asheville, NC.
    New home of Sierra Nevada AND New Belgium breweries!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    14th August 07
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker View Post
    The repairman that worked on my commercial Singer told me he never recommends Singer needles for any Singer machine. He swears by the Schmetz needles, and since switching to them I don't think I have broken a single needle, even when punching through multiple layers of canvas.
    It's hard to pinpoint an exact date for 'older' as Singer factories spewed out thousands of machines during the longer needle era which were warehoused for years before being sold. Singer also made machines for such brand names as Kenmore, New Home, etc. This warning only applies to the needles sold in Singer packaging which lists a whole bunch of brands. The needles themselves are marked with a blue band. Anyway, they work perfectly fine with the machines that they are intended for, just not with other machines. Funnily enough tho, the other brand sewing machine needles will work with Singer just as your repairman says.

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