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13th March 10, 08:35 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Ozark Ridge Rider
Wonderful advice. Now, the one I need 2" shorter is a Stillwater standard. I suppose that makes it acrylic...
Does the same advice still hold true, except maybe pressing with a lot cooler iron?
That's right, Dan. Since the Stillwaters come in one length, doing a hem is pretty commonplace.
In my experience, the SWK fabric has a decent selvedge, so you don't want to cut it. Just fold once & hem. The herringbone stitch is illustrated here by Barb.
For extra credit, you can turn up an extra 3/8 inch at the corner of the under-apron and the fold of the deep pleat, as Barb mentions above. Go ahead and undo the facings to make it pretty: it'll be worth it.
Last edited by fluter; 14th March 10 at 08:23 PM.
Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
gainfully unemployed systems programmer
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13th March 10, 08:51 PM
#12
Barb is right, as she always is. I've seen many hemmed kilts. I even purchased one from Scotland that came hemmed. As Pleater says it adds to the swish if the fabric is light. There is always someone who is going to tell you you can't do it. I normally ask why? And if they can't give me a cogent answer I disregard the proclamation of these folks. Hemming your kilt is much simpler than getting a kiltmaker to redo it.
Past President, St. Andrew's Society of the Inland Northwest
Member, Royal Scottish Country Dance Society
Founding Member, Celtic Music Spokane
Member, Royal Photographic Society
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15th March 10, 07:25 AM
#13
Originally Posted by thescot
There are two answers. Both will work; the first is best.
1. Get a real kilt maker to tear the waist loose and redo the whole thing. It's quite a job of actually rebuilding the kilt, but it actually moves the waist line down, making the result a shorter kilt.
2. Ever so carefully cutting the selvege end. This is a tedious process and not for the faint of heart or shaky of hand. There are some very good instructions online about running a zig-zag stich and using some fray stopping stuff. It is my understanding that the regiments used this method.
1. That is a huge job that a real kilt maker would not do. If a kilt has been made to measure, the waist line is the (generally) narrowest part. It's where the kilt hangs from! Hemming from the top would mean that you'd have to redo all the pleats to get the kilt hanging properly. Certainly can be done, but why would you? It's less expensive to get a new kilt!
2. Cutting or tearing the kilting selvedge is just WRONG!! Using fray stopping stuff would RUIN the kilt. You'd never get it out, it'll add a ridge that you can't press out, it'll scratch your skin, and as it ages, it will flake and turn white.
Running a zig-zag will actually stretch the fabric ever so slightly and make the hem wavy. No kilt maker in their right mind would ever, ever consider these methods.
I know, I know. You can hem it, but a kilt is not hemmed, and there is no way on earth that I will ever believe that a hem doesn't adversly affect the hang of the kilt. So let the slings and arrows of outrageous hemmers commence. I still would never hem my kilt, only my wife's skirt.
From the number of posts to the contrary, you've definitely been proven wrong. Why would you ever think a kilt can't be hemmed? Kilts have been passed from one family member to others and have probably been hemmed since their 'invention'. And, call me outrageous but, I think the comment about hemming being only for women's garments is just plain rude.
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15th March 10, 08:37 AM
#14
Well, I OWN 2 hemmed kilts and will have another done soon, and I can tell you there is no adverse effect. BarbT hemmed one for me which was such a bargain on ebay it couldn't be passed up, and it is not noticable and has not effected the swing at all. If I remember correctly, Lady Chrystel hemmed one she made for me because the selvedge from Frasier and Kirkbright was pretty wonky. It too swings great! Much more economical than rebuilding from the top down, too
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21st March 10, 02:16 PM
#15
When I ordered my last kilt (a casual from Burnett's & Struth) I thought I'd be able to deal with the more traditional waist height. But after trying to wear it for month or so I found that it just wasn't comfortable for me. I contacted B&S and they gave me two options: have them rebuild the top (for nearly the original cost of the kilt) or have them take the needed amount off the bottom (for $45 or so, I believe). Needless to say, I went for the latter option. The kilt is on it's way back to me, so I can't report on the final effect yet.
(I'm also in the same boat as many that can't wear the cursed "standard" 24" length of off the rack kilts. If SWK ever started offering a hemming service I'd buy one of their wool Blackwatch kilts. I just don't know if I'd trust my regular tailor to hem a kilt for me.)
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21st March 10, 07:19 PM
#16
Enquiring Minds...
Originally Posted by NewEnglander
When I ordered my last kilt (a casual from Burnett's & Struth) I thought I'd be able to deal with the more traditional waist height. But after trying to wear it for month or so I found that it just wasn't comfortable for me...
I agree that it is none too comfourtable supporting a kilt with sporran with your abdomen for more than a few hours (as opposed to actual hips), but where on earth do you wear the top of your kilt(s)???
Here's tae us, Whas like us... Deil the Yin!
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21st March 10, 07:35 PM
#17
Depending on how much longer it is than you want it. Perhaps a temporary solution is to wear it higher than you normally would and wear a waistcoat/vest. It might not be the best as a permanent solution, but it might be better than trying to rush a job. (I note you say it is URGENT in the subject... so I assume you want to do something relatively quickly.)
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22nd March 10, 06:54 AM
#18
Originally Posted by Deil the Yin
I agree that it is none too comfourtable supporting a kilt with sporran with your abdomen for more than a few hours (as opposed to actual hips), but where on earth do you wear the top of your kilt(s)???
It's most comfortable to wear my kilt (ie my USAK casual or UK mocker) at the height of my navel. The 1.5" rise above that with the B&S casual didn't work. It felt like it was riding up to my armpits when I sat down and gave my midsection a less than flattering barrel shape (a lovely description from my loving fiancee).
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22nd March 10, 01:09 PM
#19
that it is none too comfourtable supporting a kilt with sporran with your abdomen for more than a few hours
Just want to share a tip from the dance world. As you can imagine, dance kilts can go through many owners in their lifetime. To save on hemming or to make do for a few competitions waiting on that expected growth spurt, dancers may sometimes wear suspenders on their kilts to pull it up a few inches.
Suspenders can also aid in 'supporting' the kilt so that your abdomen doesn't go on strike. I believe some of the military kilts come with suspender buttons already sewn on due to the heavy weight of the kilt.
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22nd March 10, 04:04 PM
#20
I agree about suspenders. I wear suspenders with my military weight kilt, and it was such an improvement in comfort that I had suspender buttons installed in my lighter civilian kilts. I still wear a kilt belt, but I no longer depend on it to hold anything up, and I no longer depend on the kilt straps, either. Suspenders all around! Cheers!
"Before two notes of the theme were played, Colin knew it was Patrick Mor MacCrimmon's 'Lament for the Children'...Sad seven times--ah, Patrick MacCrimmon of the seven dead sons....'It's a hard tune, that', said old Angus. Hard on the piper; hard on them all; hard on the world." Butcher's Broom, by Neil Gunn, 1994 Walker & Co, NY, p. 397-8.
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