Hello Knitters!

**vmac3205** · 25th March 10, 03:58 PM

For you iphone users, there is an app that shows you all the yarn shops. Woo Hoo!! I'm going shopping in Victoria this weekend.

**Ryan Ross** · 25th March 10, 04:19 PM

Originally Posted by tulloch

Great! Thanks Ryan. I'm going to give it a whirl.

My pleasure! I saw your knit balmorals(very nice, by the way), and if you can knit those, these will be easy, indeed.

One more thing, though- If you want it to be the same size as mine, knit with relatively high tension, and air towards a thinner yarn.

Also, if you like that color, that particular bonnet was made with brown Fisherman's Yarn (Lion Brand), such as can be bought at Michael's.

**tulloch** · 25th March 10, 04:21 PM

Originally Posted by Ryan Ross

My pleasure! I saw your knit balmorals(very nice, by the way), and if you can knit those, these will be easy, indeed.

One more thing, though- If you want it to be the same size as mine, knit with relatively high tension, and air towards a thinner yarn.

Also, if you like that color, that particular bonnet was made with brown Fisherman's Yarn (Lion Brand), such as can be bought at Michael's.

Got some already! Great.

I was thinking it was not right for my first sweater.

**piperdbh** · 25th March 10, 04:54 PM

If you follow Ryan Ross's instructions, it might be a good idea to fish a cotton or acrylic yarn or string or even a circular needle through the drawstring tube before felting. The wool won't grab it during felting, and you can then use that scrap yarn/string to pull the drawstring through.

**Ryan Ross** · 25th March 10, 07:31 PM

Originally Posted by piperdbh

If you follow Ryan Ross's instructions, it might be a good idea to fish a cotton or acrylic yarn or string or even a circular needle through the drawstring tube before felting. The wool won't grab it during felting, and you can then use that scrap yarn/string to pull the drawstring through.

Hah- Thanks!

Forgot to mention that bit! Yeah, if you don't pre-thread something slick, the draw-string tube pretty much felts closed. Voice of experience.

**thistlelass** · 25th March 10, 08:14 PM

Thanks for your directions Ryan!
Just wanted to add, Webbs has a great price on Harrisville Highland wool...1/2 lb cones of worsted weight wool that felts as nicely as could want. Also, since it is worsted weight, it's perfect for heavier kilt hose and of course the ever handsome sweater to wear with your kilt. You can get enough to knit a sweater and a pair of hose for around $70!!! I would suggest pre-washing before swatching and knitting to eliminate yardage loss since it is cone yarn. More colors than you could ever want (is that possible???) is a major plus for this yarn!

**Pleater** · 26th March 10, 02:23 AM

When decreasing I separate the 'togethers' by prime numbers of stitches, as that seems to ensure that corners do not develop nor any other feature created by lines of alterations.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**unaspenser** · 31st March 10, 09:30 AM

I think the toorie is a nice addition. There are several places online to get balmoral/bonnet patterns. The one I use is of my own design, and I divide the hat into six sections, then increase or decrease at a different spot in each section to prevent the corner/cheese wedge/hexagon look and ensure a nice round shape.

**Ryan Ross** · 1st April 10, 11:10 AM

Here's a grey one, made a bit bigger than the first:

I'd like to try and get one with a more flat crown, kind of like this:

I was thinking that if I used a bit thicker yarn (for increased body) and continued to knit above the band without increasing for a few rows, then tapered into the flat portion of the bonnet, it might work. Can any of you experienced knitters help me here? Thanks in advance!

EDIT: Another approach, based on another part of the painting above, might be to start the hatband portion smaller, letting it stretch more to fit on the head. Do you think this might have the same effect? Here's what I'm talking about (notice the perportions of the bonnet, when not being worn):

**Pleater** · 1st April 10, 12:52 PM

If you are knitting inward from the brim to the centre and the knitting is domeing then you need to decrease more stitches, or do fewer rows between decreases.

The fabric does need to be firm, so using thicker yarn or smaller needles will help it stay in shape.

As you work you need to stretch the knitting out to its fullest diameter to see how it will lie when worn - be careful if you are using wooden or bamboo needles not to pull on them or you will snap them. It might be better to transfer all the sts to a thread or circular needle to stretch the cap and then knit them off afterwards.

You can reshape quite a bit if you are going to felt it, but it is a bit of a pain to get right. It is better to have the top flat to start with.

I work berets in crochet and start in the middle of the top so I am working the other way round from your knitted ones. When I have a disc large enough for the top I work a few rounds without shaping and then begin the decreasing towards the brim. The bit of extra height gives a better look to the finished cap and it tends not to fall into creases as much as a cap with a more abrupt fold in it.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: