If it is any help - and it might not be - when I start out to make a kilt I press the folds into the fabric so I am working on only two layers of it. That is a fold for the outside and inside of the pleat from lower edge to hip, and then whatever is appropriate from hip to waist, which depends on how the taper is being dealt with.

I start off with the outer fold, then measure between them for the inner fold - so if there is any shrinking when pressed it is pretty much dealt with before sewing starts.

I don't press the original piece of fabric as there doesn't really seem to be much point, I work on the cut piece or pieces for the garment. I might iron out a bad wrinkle or twist in the original, just to check that it is not a permanent feature.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: