What is Traditional Highland Dress?

[Jock Scot]

As has been ably demonstrated here, there are many definitions of what traditional Highland attire is. Some are pretty accurate, I think, but not surprisingly none seem to satisfy everyone. All I can say is, I know what traditional Highland attire is, when I see it, I know what is not when I see it and I can appreciate a modern adjustment that works. Individual perspectives on all this will undoubtedly differ from others and that will not ever change, just like in the past and for certain sure those differing perspectives will still be there in the future.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

So why put the cutoff at the 80s? Were the 80s really so bad, that even kilts were affected?

Sean, I think the 80's were chosen because that's when the rent-a-kilt business really took off, with stores like Pro-Nuptia and Moss Bros. (both in the UK) cashing in on the kilted wedding business with the "cookie cutter" look, which soon became ubiquitous. This also coincides with the publication, in 1979, of "So You're Going To Wear The Kilt" which did as much (in the opinion of many traditionalists) to dumb down Highland attire as it did to promote the wearing of the same.

As with any "time line" the demarcation is always going to be somewhat arbitrary, but in this instance 1980 is probably as good a choice as any.

[Bugbear]

Someone call Richard Dawkins! This cookie cutter kilt thing has taken on a self-replicating life of it's own!

[OC Richard]

I think the 80's were chosen because that's when the rent-a-kilt business really took off... the kilted wedding business with the "cookie cutter" look, which soon became ubiquitous.

This also coincides with the publication, in 1979, of "So You're Going To Wear The Kilt" which did as much (in the opinion of many traditionalists) to dumb down Highland attire as it did to promote the wearing of the same.

Interesting food for thought there.

In the civilian Pipe Band world, change began in the 1970's, as far as I can determine.

As late as the 1960's bands were either wearing a civilian version of military Full Dress, or (stay with me here) one of the traditional modes of civilian Highland Dress: Day Dress or Evening Dress. Pipe band members in Evening Dress or Day Dress were, to all intents and purposes, indistinguishable from non-piping civilians in Highland Dress.

As far as I can see, in the 1970's pipe band dress began diverging from ordinary Highland Dress, first with the fad of wearing Prince Charlies with long neckties etc:



By the mid-1980's a new pipe band dress swept over the world, the black Argyll jacket/black Glengarry/white hose/ghillies look. All colour save for the kilt was banished (most bands wearing even black flashes).

[creagdhubh]

Keen observations Richard and you are so right! Thanks for sharing the photos-that is an interesting 'doublet' that gent is wearing-appears to be double breasted? Unique look indeed.

[creagdhubh]

It's nice to have a model in traditional attire, and I had fun trying to copy a few of the gentlemen I admire...
I came up with these results:








Best,

Robert

I love the photo of the late Sir Fitzroy Maclean. I own many books that he has written pertaining to Scottish history. Again, wonderful photos-you look very smart and every bit the Highland gentleman.

Slainte,

[CMcG]

As has been ably demonstrated here, there are many definitions of what traditional Highland attire is. Some are pretty accurate, I think, but not surprisingly none seem to satisfy everyone. All I can say is, I know what traditional Highland attire is, when I see it, I know what is not when I see it and I can appreciate a modern adjustment that works. Individual perspectives on all this will undoubtedly differ from others and that will not ever change, just like in the past and for certain sure those differing perspectives will still be there in the future.

I think these varying definitions of traditional Highland attire are what prompted me to start this thread. What I'm attempting to stimulate, is a meta-communicative discussion regarding the way things are organized on this site; to talk about what we're talking about. Specifically what falls under the rubric of traditional Highland attire.

Apparently sometimes a thread seems to fit perfectly into one area or another and sometimes I see blurred edges. And sometimes -- unlike Jock -- I still can't tell when something just isn't traditional Highland attire at all.

The mutual influence of civilian, military, band, historical, and even fashion clothing is what is really getting me now. For example, what about discussing something that appears *mostly* traditional but not entirely? Bands whose uniforms look like civilians, civilians that wear military elements (government sett, regimental tie, or regimental sgian anyone?), revived historical styles, and modern tweaks all muddy the waters for me.

I suppose a thread that obviously crosses boundaries could just go in the "General Kilt Talk" section. Or when in doubt, it probably isn't traditional Highland attire. But perhaps sometimes is there latitude in regards to what gets posted in this part of the forum because of the varying views that have been expressed towards this thread? Or is the discussion limited by more than just a time period?

[Bugbear]

Post deleted.

[Jock Scot]

CMcG.

I think it will help you "think traditional" and "see traditional" if you remove the military, bands(civilian bands too) and historical and re-enactment Highland attire from your minds eye. What I am about to say may sound like heresy to some with their undoubted enthusiasm and deep knowledge for pipe bands, the military, and military history. That is all fine and dandy, but they have,in fact, very little to do with ACTUAL CIVILIAN traditional Scottish Highland wear. Yes you can find common threads, of that there is no doubt, but it is not helpful and it is obviously confusing to many, to view all these pictures of pipe bands and Highland musicians as a guide to traditional CIVILIAN highland attire.

For me, when I look at a civilian clad in the Highland attire I dismiss him completely and instantly from the traditional civilian attire context if he is a member of a band(any band)or is a solo musician. With apologies to the musicians here, they are dressed as performers and are dressed as traditional Highland performers and very smart they are too, usually, but they are not dressed in TRADITIONAL CIVILIAN Highland attire, there is a difference, a subtle difference at times I grant you, nevertheless that key difference is there. I hope that this helps you identify the "apples from the pears" more easily.

Yes there are blurred edges, although not as blurred as you may think. The Regimental tie is civilian attire, not military issue. They do show a LEGITIMATE military connection though. Most Scots wear their clan tartan ,not their military(if they have one) one in civilian life. Yes, I wear my grandfather's military kilt pin and carry my uncle's Black Watch Sgian Dubh, but they are little or no different to many a civilian item and I am no different to many civilians in Scotland in doing so and is accepted practice here. It just makes financial sense and I doubt that we even think about it. If I may respectfully say so, you are falling into the trap of trying to compartmentalise things that won't ever fit a rule or convention and you are leaving no space in your mind for those inevitable "blurred edges".

With the greatest respect to all the non Scots here(my apologies to 98% of the members then!), it is many of you chaps that are muddying the waters by your penchant for wanting to wear military kit with your Highland Scots civilian attire and not understanding the, sometimes, subtle differences between band and civilian attire. Might I also add that the accepted Highland Scots(British too) practices are often, at worst, ignored and at best, not understood by those not from our shores. Through no fault, mostly, of anyone you are mixing your non Scots culture, with military(Scots mainly) culture, with Highland Scots civilian culture and it is not the least bit surprising to me that this confusion exists outside Scotland.

[MacLowlife]

I think you are right, Jock, about the blurring. Many gentlemen I know in Scottish Heritage circles ( of which I am on only the very outer edge ) are either military men or formerly so. Matt Newsome and others ( Even Charles Thompson, I think) have commented on the tendency towards pin and badge wearing with otherwise civilian clothing. And, like white hose, it seems to be something that nobody much praises, but a lot of people do.

But here is something to think about: Unless one wears a uniform, (i.e., identical clothing to everyone else) one can only be "typical" ( of a type) which means A LOT LIKE, BUT NOT IDENTICAL TO others. That means your shirt may vary slightly from your neighbor's, or your hose, or the cut of your jacket, or the placement of the buttons, or whatever the variation is. But it has to be one or the other- identical, and thus uniform, or varying within a range and thus typical ( and I might add, Traditional). All of this means, to my mind, that Traditional Civilian Dress must vary, must have some inconsistencies, must deviate from time to time from other examples. And, thus, like a running average, the "type" at one point in time may ( and probably SHOULD) vary a little from the type at another point, earlier or later. That is, it evolves, or at least does not remain entirely constant. Or have I missed something?