Bespoke kilt jacket

[rtc872]

Hello all.

I am getting married next year and have been looking at jackets and have been quite surprised that the modern styles that I like are generally listed as £350. This seems to me to be quite a steep investment (costing more than my kilt) to make without being able to first try it on and without knowing the quality.

Therefore even if it costs a couple hundred more I thought why not invest in a jacket that can potentially last me for many years to come and fit perfect.

Which leads to the advice part of the post.

Being for a wedding, is charcoal tweed too casual in your opinion?

Being a piper are there any suggestions for making the arm movement a little more free?

Is there anything I should particularly ask for and look out for?

and lastly what length for jacket and vest should I go for? I will most probably be going to a tailor that has only ever made suits so I should have an idea.

Thanks for any help

[JSFMACLJR]

Really there is no need to limit yourself to charcoal grey tweed. Gentlemen in the Highlands wear all sorts of jackets to weddings. There are quite a few threads in the Forum regarding wedding dress, too.

And because there will be some who doubt me, here are two pics from a recent wedding. The best man might be wearing a grey jacket, but the groom isn't!





That being said, though, a grey tweed jacket is a very practical garment, and will get you by in just about any circumstance.

[JSFMACLJR]

Being a piper are there any suggestions for making the arm movement a little more free?

Is there anything I should particularly ask for and look out for?

and lastly what length for jacket and vest should I go for? I will most probably be going to a tailor that has only ever made suits so I should have an idea.

Thanks for any help

Well, if it is a truly bespoke jacket, make sure the arm holes are "high". A working buttonhole on the lapel will come in handy too. Ask the tailor to add a piece of thread on the backside, so that if you wear a flower in your buttonhole you won't need a pin to secure it.

As to the length, the jacket needs to cover the sewn part of the pleats (the fell?)

[rtc872]

By how much should it cover the fell? An inch or more? Btw thanks so much for the advice. By "high" sleeves should they be higher on the shoulder or the armpit

[JSFMACLJR]

By how much should it cover the fell? An inch or more? Btw thanks so much for the advice. By "high" sleeves should they be higher on the shoulder or the armpit

I'm not exactly sure how the "high" comes about; I just know that that produces a much better fit.

As to the length, the jacket should cover the sewn part of the pleats, and not much more. Maybe that would be about to your wrist. There are enough pics on the Forum to get a pretty good idea of the proper length. Check out any with the Duke of Rothesay ( Prince Charles ) in them.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Are you planning on having the jacket and waistcoat made by a tailor in the Far East? If so, I would try to find the Simplicity Pattern for a day wear jacket on ebay as this will make it easier for the tailor to make the jacket to the correct length, etc.

[Bugbear]

That would be Simplicity Kilt and Argyll jacket (Pattern #5029).

Just trying to be useful.

[rtc872]

This is great advice. Should I go for bellows at the shoulder for extra reach or should the high armholes give enough movement.

Thank you so much

[JSFMACLJR]

This is great advice. Should I go for bellows at the shoulder for extra reach or should the high armholes give enough movement.

Thank you so much

No bellows. A well-tailored jacket will fit perfectly and have the arm holes in the correct place.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

That would be Simplicity Kilt and Argyll jacket (Pattern #5029).

Just trying to be useful.

What a considerate posting. Most useful, indeed!