Kyle,

I think tartan doublets are splendid, although few have the panache to pull them off. If you're currently defying the American herd by wearing buckle brogues and Argyll hose, though, I'm sure you have what it takes.

IMHO, the real trick to a tartan doublet is simplicity of design- i.e. forgo the usual epaulets, cuffs, etc. unless they're in a contrasting solid color. I'm thinking Sandy's style of doublet, or perhaps a simplified Sheriffmuir would work best. To your specific inquiries:

Quote Originally Posted by creagdhubh View Post
1) Should the tartan in the doublet be cut on the bias? Would it matter entirely?
I think tartan doublets look best when on the bias. I've seen a photo of a doublet not on the bias and it didn't look quite right to my eyes. I think this is more traditional, as well, based on the antique examples out there.

Quote Originally Posted by creagdhubh View Post
2) If the doublet was made in the style of the Regulation, Appin, or Sheriffmuir, would a tartan waistcoat, either cut on the bias or not, be acceptable?
I think certainly yes, although you could always mix it up a bit and do a solid velvet waistcoat in a complimentary color which would look smart.

Quote Originally Posted by creagdhubh View Post
3) Is matching the type, colour, sett size, and tonality of the Macpherson tartan in the doublet to the Macpherson tartan in the kilt ideal-both aesthetically and traditionally speaking?
I think I would avoid this a bit. In other words, if the sett size, or the color shades used were a bit different from your kilt, I think it would add interest to the doublet. Perhaps you could go with the LC Braeriach (13oz.) fabric so that the sett size would be a little smaller. Likewise, you could even use a HOE fabric because of the different colors they use vs. LC (their muted color scheme is really nice)- once again, smaller sett size and slightly different color tones to add interest.

Keep us updated on the process!

Cordially,

David