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23rd June 10, 05:52 PM
#1
Well now, here is a topic I can take great delight in!
Kyle, get a tartan doublet! We've chatted about this some in the past, I know, but feel free to pick my brain.
OK, first off, can Kinloch-Anderson make tartan doublets? I would recommend you check with Stewart Christie, or if you have plenty of cash, go down to London to my tailor Meyer & Mortimer and speak with them. By lots of money I mean at least 3K pounds!
There really are two options: 1. an Argyll-style doublet; 2. a high collored doublet. Both have strengths and weaknesses. I chose the former. I wanted a more "casual" jacket that I could wear in a number of ways: either with a waistcoat and bow tie or jabot, or sans waistcoat with a bow tie for smaller dinners and dances and such. The other style of doublet would be better suited to a jabot--although MacGregor wears either a jabot or a tie with his splendid doublet.
I like tartan doublets on the bias, and did a lot of research and field work to see what's out there. Bias cut might account for 2/3 of the tartan doublets I've seen. I think the sett doesn't have to match perfectly, but it ought to be pretty close IMHO.
Now, I've shown quite a few tartan doublets here before, but I'll do another montage, beginning with mine!


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23rd June 10, 06:21 PM
#2
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23rd June 10, 06:26 PM
#3
These two doublets are without a doubt the nicest tartan doublets I've seen! Funny they both belong to Stewarts...cousins at that!




Both were made in London by Meyer & Mortimer.
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23rd June 10, 06:49 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by JSFMACLJR
The seaming and matching on those doublets is nothing short of art! Wonderful and a delight to behold. Thank you for adding something else to my ever growing list of 'must haves'.
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23rd June 10, 06:29 PM
#5
Stop the press!!! Sandy you look wonderful!!!
Sandy,
I can't tell you enough how excited I was to see your reply, and it was even more special with the delightful photos of yourself (and family I assume in the one photo) in your superb tartan doublet! I do love your doublet and since I have ordered my three button waistcoats from the same establishment that you had your smart doublet tailored, I would feel even more confident ordering a tartan doublet from them as well. I do like the more casual look of the "Argyll" style of doublet, however, I am dying to wear a lace jabot and cuffs with a close-fitting doublet that has a high collar, and may or may not require a belt (possibly with a dirk?). I love the look of the single-breasted Kenmore and the double-breasted Montrose, as well as the relaxing aspect of the Sheriffmuir, which I find having many positive attributes-being it is not as restrictive as the tighter fitting doublets, has "Inverness" flaps, "Argyll" cuffs, and a high collar to set off the lace jabot.
The fact that one could also wear a tartan waistcoat with the Sheriffmuir is an exciting aspect-best of both worlds. The only problem is that I am still unsure if the firm, that I am every loyal to, Kinloch-Anderson, can make any of the aforementioned doublets in Strome tartan. I have sent a detailed e-mail and am awaiting a response-I have conversed with them many times before for previous orders and queries via e-mail, and they are always quick, courteous, professional, and happy to help. I will look into Stewart Christie as well, and thank you very much for mentioning your tailor in London. I am not made of money (at least not at this juncture in my life-I'm only 29!), so I do have a budget that I must adhere to, however, I know that quality, bespoke Highland attire can get rather expensive and is well worth the cost in my humble opinion.
Are you completely satisfied with your tartan doublet?
Is the tailoring, material, and construction up to your standard?
I assume that if I do choose to have my tartan doublet made in the more casual "Argyll" style, the tailor from the establishment that we are both obviosuly aware of and have done business with, can use a different colour for the lapels, front breast pocket, and pocket flaps, base upon the colour of my chosen tartan?
How long did your doublet take to be made? Is it vented in the rear or no?
Did you order your kilt from the same establishment you had your tartan doublet made in order to maximize the sett and colour matching (the tartan is all from the same mill I am sure)?
I may have many more questions, and when I do, I'll be sure to PM you so I do not bore too many members on XMTS!
Thank you again for your advice and for posting the photos...I'd love to see more of your ensembles my friend!
Cheers Sandy,
Last edited by creagdhubh; 23rd June 10 at 07:13 PM.
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23rd June 10, 06:42 PM
#6
Wow, Sandy, thank you so much for posting the other multitude of tartan doublets! I really have gained considerable insight into how to properly wear a tartan doublet, and to pull it off with great panache, grace, and style! The look is fiercely striking, bold, and extremely pleasing to the eye-in my opinion. The more that I see the lovely "casual" look of the tartan doublet, I should say, in the cut of an Argyll jacket, coatee, or something along those lines, the more that I like it.
Like you mentioned earlier, having a tartan doublet tailored in that particular relaxed, yet still very formal, style, tends to be more casual yes, but also more versatile it seems. Of course I would never wear the doublet for day attire (in terms of versatility), but I like that fact that for evening wear, I can decide to pair the doublet up with my tartan waistcoats for an even more striking look, just as you have done! I especially like how you wore a modern shade of your tartan in your waistcoat, with the more muted (or ancient, not sure mate?) shade of your doublet and kilt-absolutely superb, just superb Sandy! Thank you so much for posting the montage of tartan doublets-both in action, and inactive on the hanger.
Slainte,
Last edited by creagdhubh; 23rd June 10 at 06:47 PM.
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24th June 10, 01:08 PM
#7
I have a better idea. While you're deciding on which style and tartan to have doublet made from, why don't you send me a black Sheriffmuir? When you get the tartan one, you won't have any need for a black one, and I've been wanting one in the worst way.
Sounds like a good idea to me, at least.
--dbh
When given a choice, most people will choose.
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24th June 10, 01:35 PM
#8
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24th June 10, 02:56 PM
#9
 Originally Posted by creagdhubh
LOL! Yeah right mate, I don't think so!  I actually don't own a Sheriffmuir doublet in black barathea, I own a Regulation doublet in black barathea from Kinloch-Anderson. Nice try though, I'll give you that.
Aye,
Well, I tried.
--dbh
When given a choice, most people will choose.
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14th August 10, 07:10 PM
#10
 Originally Posted by creagdhubh
Sandy,
I may have many more questions, and when I do, I'll be sure to PM you so I do not bore too many members on XMTS!
Thank you again for your advice and for posting the photos...I'd love to see more of your ensembles my friend!
Cheers Sandy,
Cousin, you are by no means boring any of the rest of us. This is a fascinating thread, and most entertaining! While I may never reach the exalted levels of kilted living where you, Sandy and Scott subsist, it is at the very least a vicarious thrill to see and hear about your deliberations and choices. Please do not deprive us of our ringside seat.
At my current girth, if I were to request such garments from a tailor, they would likely snigger up their sleeve. However, should my fitness regimen yield the hoped for results, all bets are off. In that happy event, your research, analysis and decision making process will become critical to my success--and there will be tartan waiscoats and jackets all around. First on deck, MacPherson Hunting....
"Before two notes of the theme were played, Colin knew it was Patrick Mor MacCrimmon's 'Lament for the Children'...Sad seven times--ah, Patrick MacCrimmon of the seven dead sons....'It's a hard tune, that', said old Angus. Hard on the piper; hard on them all; hard on the world." Butcher's Broom, by Neil Gunn, 1994 Walker & Co, NY, p. 397-8.
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