Prince Charlie advice

[Cygnus]

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If warmth is a consideration you could get a linen jacket and waistcoat made.
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Unless you're really worried about being too warm, I wouldn't recommend linen - it wrinkles too easily and (in my opinion) doesn't hang quite right.

The rest of Hothir's advice is spot on, though.

[davidlpope]

If you're having the jacket tailor made for you, my recommendation would be to skip the Prince Charlie and go for the regulation doublet. The tashes are real attention getters without being too different from a dinner jacket or Prince Charlie coatee.

My thinking here is that (in my opinion) the regulation doublet is more versatile than the Prince Charlie in that it is great for black tie events and will add a bit of flair to your outfit, but it also has the added bonus of being in the same classification as the Montrose and Sheriffmuir doublets and so is also ideal for white-tie events.

You can take a PC up to white-tie level, too, it just tends to be outshone by these other doublets when you do.

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David

[hot_rod29]

While I do have a linen suit, I'm not that worried about the heat. The kilt has built in ac after all! So I'll definitely be going with wool. If the Braemar Ghillie is truly suitable for Black Tie then I think I've found a winner. While I do like the look of the doublets I don't think they fit my style, but more importantly my fiance would not like them. She enjoys it when I wear my kilt and I don't want what I choose to wear with it making her uncomfortable. Plus with those I'm pretty limited in when I could wear them.

Hothir, if you could put me in touch with the mill that would be fantastic! My tailor is fairly limited in selection outside of traditional suitings and shirtings. The heavier wools appropriate to military and more formed jackets aren't really called for here.

I enjoyed what I've read so far at www.blacktieguide.com/ but I might have misspoken when I mentioned the "strict demands of fashion" what I was referring to was the fashion industry. To illustrate, I hate that women's clothes seem stuck in either the 50s or the 70s! Unless I'm really bumming around I'm pretty well dressed, I just don't care what the current fashion trend is. For example, my suits are 3 button, 3 piece, fitted cut with suspender buttons inside... even though I've been assured that is not the fashion this season. The suits are cleanly cut, elegant, with a timeless style and flatter my build. I don't care what so called designers are putting on the street this year, most of it is ugly IMHO.

I truly appreciate everyone's suggestions. Further insights into how the jacket should be constructed would be most helpful. Although after looking at the prices at MackinzieFrain I might have to give them a call if their quality is good?!

Lastly, is a Black (or other dark tone) silk cravat an acceptable alternative to the black bowtie for a black-tie event? I have a traditional self tie bowtie for black-tie. I just like the look of a cravat better, especially with the kilt.

[fluter]

Unless you're really worried about being too warm, I wouldn't recommend linen - it wrinkles too easily and (in my opinion) doesn't hang quite right.

I was going to suggest using the best quality suiting you can afford, if you get it custom tailored. Your tailor might also make an off the rack Braemer/Argyll fit you properly.

One nice touch with these jackets is is to add a 3-button vest to cover black tie, and have the 5-button for necktie (or cravat) occasions. The 3-button, PC style just seems to go nicely with the black bow tie. I'm not sure it would be the same with a 3-button jacket, but it works with the familiar one-button Argyll and its relatives.

[hot_rod29]

The weave of the Marino fabric actually matches my casual kilt exactly. Comparing the black square in my Black Stewart kilt to the cloth swatch, the weave is the same (my current kilt is a 13 oz casual, box pleat). The cloth swatch is just a deeper black color. Is this a good thing or should I really try to get a Barathea weave fabric? I plan on ordering a full 16oz, 8 yard in Stewart Hunting tartan soon and while the fabric might be an exact match for my casual kilt would it look odd with the other?

Is 12 oz fabric heavy enough for my needs? I'm growing used to seeing fairly substantial materials used for kilt jackets, and would rather not pay for tailoring something that will not look right in comparison.

Also, I see that none of the cuffs on these jackets appear to function. For me it is a personal quirk of taste but if I'm having something custom made I like for all parts of it to be functioning. Does anyone know how these cuffs are actually supposed to work?

[Hothir Ethelnor]

If the weave of the fabric matches the tartan it is a 2/2 twill weave.

I don't know of any good reason why normal twill would be unacceptable for a formal jacket.

I am making a doublet from 11oz tartan so 12oz wool should work fine.

I am quite sure you can have your tailor make any of the cuff styles functioning. I do it to all my jackets and it is nice.

Instead of sewing the buttons onto the outside of the cuff you simply add button holes and sew the buttons to the sleeve underneath. If you are wanting a "Braemer" style cuff you might want the sleeve split up to the top of the cuff so that the cuff actually holds the end of the sleeve together.

Basically making working cuffs means more buttonholes and a little more work to finish some edges that wouldn't have shown if the cuff was sewn down.

[hot_rod29]

Thanks for the fast response! Your points make sense, and it's nice to hear I shouldn't need to wait for ordering and shipping fabric.

I do understand what goes into making working cuffs on jackets, I guess my question was poorly phrased. How do the Prince Charlie style cuffs actually work? I see the flap of fabric that is stitched onto the sleeve. On a working cuff should that flap be sewn in at the seam and then wrap around the sleeve to the buttons? Should the jacket sleeve then be open from the end of the sleeve to the top of that flap, or higher? On the non working sleeves the flap is only one thickness of cloth, for a working version I assume it should be more for durability. And should the flap have a canvas inside? It's been awhile since I've seen a close up of a current PC sleeve.

Thanks for all the help!
jared

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Prince Charlie cuffs are "Breamer" cuffs when added to an Argyll jacket.

I would make them with canvas, and either lined on the underside or with the same jacket fabric.

I would simply split the seam the cuff is normally tucked into slightly higher than where the cuff goes and use the cuff to hold the end of the sleeve together.

[MacLowlife]

If I were you, I'd get the lightest "wool tropical" you can find. A dress jacket is worn indoors more often than out- at least mine all seem to be. I'd ask the tailor to show me some lightweight worsteds. Don't worry about the weave matching your kilt- go for comfort and versatility. Good luck.

[hot_rod29]

thanks for all the pointers guys.
My concern was that going with the cloth that matched might look like I was "trying too hard" and still didn't quite get it right. Then I sanity checked myself and realized that I'm the only one who will ever look at it that closely. So, I have three options of fairly hard wearing suiting fabric to look at. Next time I go to the souq I'll take my kilt with me and see how they look.

Then I'll take some pictures to the tailor, talk about construction methods and settle on a price. Order some buttons, buy the fabric, then it's all over but the waiting... then to order my new kilt.

Thanks guys you've been awesome.
This thread changed the direction I am going with the jacket, pointed me to some suppliers for the accessories and gave me some great talking points for my tailor. If anyone has anything else just let me know.