Source for quality formalwear in the US

[artificer]

...I have found these shirts to be the best as far as durability, performance, and overall looks. Not exactly cheap, but worth the money in the long run. I am also fond of the pique look….(with or without pleats are available) http://www.tuxedosdirect.com/product/015973.shtml
...

As an FYI there's a chap selling these on eBay for around $35 delivered (bagged and 1st quality-not factory seconds). I'll try and find the link again. They are quite nice.

[longhuntr74]

Lots of talk about dress shirts here. I'm, unfortunately, limited to pleated front shirts. Speaking of which...do the masses prefer wider or narrow pleats? I think I remember reading that wider are more traditional with 1/4" pleats being a post WWII trend. Is that true? Is one considered more refined than the other or more or less formal?

Also...what about ties and cummerbunds? Anybody have a favorite brand/maker? Obviously I'm looking for a self-tie bow tie...no more pre-tied. I was thinking about going for grosgrain or faille...but then I realized that the lapels on my mess jacket are satin. Do you think I should keep the tie and cummerbund satin as well? Or is it ok to mix satin lapels with grosgrain tie and cummerbund. Here's my wife and I at my last formal...yes...pre-tied bowtie and el-cheapo cummerbund....ick....this is why I want to upgrade!!!



Sorry about the flash white out...I'm sure there's a way to adjust the pic, but I just didn't take the time. It highlights the grey in my temples as well!!!

[azwildcat96]

Also...what about ties and cummerbunds? ... I was thinking about going for grosgrain or faille...but then I realized that the lapels on my mess jacket are satin. Do you think I should keep the tie and cummerbund satin as well? Or is it ok to mix satin lapels with grosgrain tie and cummerbund.

I think the general "rule" is to keep the lapel, tie and cummerbund all the same material...

[longhuntr74]

I think the general "rule" is to keep the lapel, tie and cummerbund all the same material...

Black tie guide...guess I should have looked there first!

The texture of the bow is governed by the lapel facing of the dinner jacket. A satin lapel calls for a satin bow tie while grosgrain facings require a ribbed or textured finish such as barathea. Like the jacket lapels, a quality bow tie will always be constructed of pure silk.

And regarding the cummerbund...
The most traditional material for cummerbunds is black silk in a satin or grosgrain finish to match the facings of the dinner jacket lapels.

The interesting thing to note is that convention calls for the cummerbund to be worn pleats facing upward (dating back to the time when tickets were kept in the fold...not to "catch the crumbs" as some may insist). Army regulations specify that the cummerbund will be worn with the pleats facing downward. Hmmm...