Freedom in Tradition

[CMcG]

"The Highland dress is essentially a 'free' dress -- that is to say, a man's taste and circumstances must alone be permitted to decide when and where and how he should wear it... I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.

There are many threads here on Xmarks discussing the 'rules' of THCD; rules can be especially valuable in guiding a beginner through potentially very foreign sartorial territory. In my opinion, finding freedom within rules is where creativity lives...

For someone who already know the rules and has internalized them through experience, where does one find freedom within THCD? How does one express oneself as an individual within tradition?

Or is Erskine wrong, Highland dress is not essentially a 'free' dress, and there is no room for freedom, creativity, or individuality in THCD?

[JSFMACLJR]

"The Highland dress is essentially a 'free' dress -- that is to say, a man's taste and circumstances must alone be permitted to decide when and where and how he should wear it... I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.

There are many threads here on Xmarks discussing the 'rules' of THCD; rules can be especially valuable in guiding a beginner through potentially very foreign sartorial territory. In my opinion, finding freedom within rules is where creativity lives...

For someone who already know the rules and has internalized them through experience, where does one find freedom within THCD? How does one express oneself as an individual within tradition?

Or is Erskine wrong, Highland dress is not essentially a 'free' dress, and there is no room for freedom, creativity, or individuality in THCD?

Erskine is correct, in that Highland Dress is a "free dress." One expresses this freedom in the cut and fabric of jackets, in the colour, pattern of hose, in the choice of buttons, in the display of one's armorial bearings. You can wear one sporran one day, another the next. You can choose to wear a bonnet, or not. Wear a jabot or stock in the evening, or choose to wear a bow tie instead. The possibilities are endless, actually.

Take, for example, one of my evening doublets. It is made of blue silk velvet. In consultation with my tailor we chose a distinctive cut--similar to a "regulation doublet" but slightly different. I wanted coloured facings, a working button hole on the left lapel, pockets underneath all the flaps. Having the freedom to make clothes the way YOU want them is what Erskine had in mind. My doublet may not be to everyone's liking or taste, but it is exactly what I want!

[xman]

Given the variety of ensembles and the confusion which can arise, this makes complete sense to me. In fact it focuses the issue clearly. Perhaps we should even stop referring to the 'rules' and comment upon the 'general guidelines' or simply 'tradition'.

Somebody should inform the kilt hire establishment.

[wildrover]

Given the variety of ensembles and the confusion which can arise, this makes complete sense to me. In fact it focuses the issue clearly. Perhaps we should even stop referring to the 'rules' and comment upon the 'general guidelines' or simply 'tradition'.

Somebody should inform the kilt hire establishment.

Somebody go wake up Keith Richards and see if he has a Kilted Codex in his library.

[davidlpope]

For someone who already know the rules and has internalized them through experience, where does one find freedom within THCD?

I don't presume to put myself in this category, but it is a subject to which I've given some thought.

There are many threads here on Xmarks discussing the 'rules' of THCD; rules can be especially valuable in guiding a beginner through potentially very foreign sartorial territory. In my opinion, finding freedom within rules is where creativity lives...

How does one express oneself as an individual within tradition?

The enemy of creativity is not rules, the enemy of creativity is a willingness to buy the cheaply made and shoddy products that the Highland dress market is currently flooded with.

There is plenty of room for creativity and individuality. Creativity and individuality "live", though, in the small things that often get overlooked by new kilt-wearers. Almost every aspect of highland dress can be individualized.

For example, how many folks do you know who, having bought a kilt, buy a black Argyll jacket with chrome-colored buttons to wear with? I know many. Now, there is a time and place for the black Argyll with chrome-colored buttons. How much better, though, to purchase a well-made kilt jacket in a nice patterned tweed which will be one of a kind? That's creative and individual!

Consider kilt hose. How many folks buy a kilt and then make the "tartan sandwich", as Brooke has described it (white shirt, tartan kilt, white hose)? I know many. How much better to purchase a nice pair of hose in an interesting color? The salmon/pink hose that HG the Duke of Argyll wears may not be to your liking, but there's much room to be individual and creative: consider all the colors, patterned tops, handknit patterns, etc. available. For evening wear why settle for plain hose when there are Argyll and Diced hose available?

Likewise, instead of buying one of the solid color neckties sold by the tartan mills in order to purposely match the colors in your tartan, why not choose a nice repp stripe, club, or foulard tie? The same goes for shirts- why not country checks, bengal stripes, blues and pinks, instead of plain old white?

Or perhaps sporrans? Instead of the standard rabbit fur, chrome cantle "dress sporran" why not a traditional hair sporran or an animal mask? For daywear, why not a unique design in rich brown leather instead of the cheap black pasteboard variety that is often worn?

In all these things there is plenty of room to be creative and show individual tastes while maintaining a very traditional appearance.

Cordially,

David

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

"The Highland dress is essentially a 'free' dress -- that is to say, a man's taste and circumstances must alone be permitted to decide when and where and how he should wear it... I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.

Erskine is right, unfortunately he is inevitably mis-interpreted.

Writing as he was at the turn of the last century Erskine (and his readers) knew exactly what to wear and when to wear it. They were also aware of the meaning of that difficult to define word "taste". And most certainly they were well aware that "circumstances", ie: wealth and social standing, dictated "taste". Erskine's message was simply this: a lack of wealth or social standing should not inhibit one from wearing Highland attire.

That said, there is nothing in any of his writings that strays from "the rules" of what one should wear depending on the time of day, where they are, or what they are doing.

Rules, especially as regards dress, simplify life rather than complicate it, and most gentlemen are delighted to live as simply-- and politely-- as possible. The moment "rules" become "general guide lines", the more difficult (or downright confusing) it becomes for a gentleman to know exactly what is expected of him in any given social situation. Given that the "rules"-- at least as regards the wearing of Highland attire-- are far fewer than the rules of golf, it would seem that a gentleman with even the merest modicum of intelligence would be delighted to learn them if for no other reason than he wouldn't have to give much thought to what to wear.

Today, just as in Erskine's time, the noblest virtues are still camraderie, dependability, and unswerving loyalty. The fourth noble virtue is this: A gentleman always plays by "the rules".

[xman]

Rules, especially as regards dress, simplify life rather than complicate it, and most gentlemen are delighted to live as simply-- and politely-- as possible. The moment "rules" become "general guide lines", the more difficult (or downright confusing) it becomes for a gentleman to know exactly what is expected of him in any given social situation. Given that the "rules"-- at least as regards the wearing of Highland attire-- are far fewer than the rules of golf, it would seem that a gentleman with even the merest modicum of intelligence would be delighted to learn them if for no other reason than he wouldn't have to give much thought to what to wear.

Yes, I see. ty

[MacLowlife]

I'd like to add my faint echo of what has been said above. First, we may as well keep thinking of rules, even if they are mostly suggestions. Next, I believe the details are the thing:

Cut and color and texture do not have to be the same every time. Combination of patterns, individual twists like cufflinks and buttons ( I am getting a good covet on all over again for those salmon buttons) and overall confidence all work together to make this "free dress" individual and personal.

Finally, I suspect the answer is never going to be at the Rental Shops.

Here is a picture of two "gentlemen" in Highland dress. The one on the right is wearing a PC converted from a tailcoat in a great vintage doeskin. Note the pocket and pocket square. He is wearing a saxon formal vest in a jacquard silk. His tie is the stripe of the organization whose function he is attending. Next to him, a person of dubious character is wearing a made to measure red coatee. I have it on good authority that he wore his shirt to work all day. And yes, he is wearing a tartan bow tie. Both are wearing Stewart tartan kilts, one in Ancient hunting colo(u)rs and one in the Royal Stewart. Love it or hate it, it is pretty much Traditional Highland Dress as practiced in these parts:

http://picasaweb.google.com/MacLowlife/20101130#

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

DAMN!!!! Where are the photos?

[MacLowlife]

I have tried and tried and tried to post the actual photo. I give up AGAIN and offer the link: Some people can't go to their left. I can't post photos.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MacLowli...08267930831634

http://picasaweb.google.com/MacLowlife/Emailed#