Purchasing a B&S Casual...sett or stripe

**piperdbh** · 8th December 10, 04:09 PM

Here's a picture that might be helpful. It's my MacDougall box-pleat that Matt Newsome made. The sett is so wide that he had to pleat it more creatively than usual, using alternating stripes instead of the same stripe. I know your kilt won't be box-pleated, but the principle might work regardless.

**RockyR** · 8th December 10, 08:10 PM

Originally Posted by Avonlea22

So, according to Brandon at B&S, for a 4 yard casual kilt, you can't pleat to either one, so I guess the question is now mute.

Thanks anyways.

I know that you understand it's moot (not mute) point, but just to explain in case others don't... the reason you can't pleat a 5 yarder (or 4 yard in this case) to the sett is b/c each pleat would be 2" wide or so (depending on the size of the sett and the measurements of the kilt). When kiltmakers (including myself) talk about "cheating the sett", it means that we pleat to LESS than the full sett b/c the length of cloth available (4 or 5 yards). When done well, it still makes a nice pattern and doesn't look 'sloppy' or disorganized. Here's an example of a 5 yarder done "cheating the sett":

Please excuse the watermark:

**Riverkilt** · 9th December 10, 07:07 AM

My position on how to pleat a kilt is to trust the kiltmaker. They're the pros and will give you the best look.

I've suggested some pleat methods that my kiltmakers have politely pointed out the shortcomings and how much better an alternative pleating method would look.

They've always been right and I've always been grateful.

Letting the pros be the creative ones is the best way to pleat a kilt.

**Avonlea22** · 9th December 10, 08:23 AM

Thank you for the feedback. I do trust them, and from what I've seen from the above examples, it can certainly be done in a pleasing way.

So, I just placed my order. Let the Jonesing begin. I plan to wear this to my company holiday party on January 6th (I work at a hotel..it's the only time they can do it). They assured me I would have it by then.

After going back and forth on what tartan (and kilt maker) to go with, I finally decided on the Wilson tartan, as that is my surname. I've wanted a kilt in this tartan for quite some time, but it's generally an expensive tartan as it's not a common one. I didn't want to pass up this opportunity.

I will post pics when the little fella arrives.

**piperdown** · 9th December 10, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by ShaunMaxwell

A word of caution about the measurements on B&S kilts

I purchased a casual in the Drummond of Perth modern tartan from them a year or two back. I remember being a bit confused by the measurement section of their website. I'm not a tall guy (5'7"), and I found that the measurement for length on their website didn't go as short as I needed it to, plus they add a rise on top of the length. I called and gave them the length of the kilt I wanted from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the apron, which included the rise. I got an email confirmation in which they added a 2" rise to the measurement I provided, so I got back in touch with them and had them change the measurement, which they then confirmed.

When I got the kilt, a 2" rise had been added and it was too long. I mention this because I've spoken with others on the forum who've had the same measuring issue with B&S.

That said, B&S were very accommodating in correcting the error, and agreed to make me another kilt to the correct length, which I've enjoyed.

I haven't ordered another from them since, and they may well have changed the way measurements are input on their website, but I wanted to mention it... Nothing worse than jonesing for a new kilt only to have it be too long when it arrives!

SM

My brother had the same problem with them but they were very accomodating in fixing the problem.
When I ordered mine I was confused by their website measurments guideline so I called them and we did it over the phone. I found them very helpful!!!

**muirkirkca** · 9th December 10, 09:25 AM

I leave pleating to the kilt maker. I have a 16 oz. B&W MacDonald of Glengarry and had it measured at their store with the 2 inch rise. I always wear a 2 1/4 inch belt which rides on top of my hip bone and the kilt comes to the mid-point of my knee. Also have a couple of PV kilts where I asked for a generous hem as I found I had to add about one inch to the length. Likely best to e-mail them so they can match up with how you like to wear your kilt.

**auld argonian** · 9th December 10, 09:26 AM

I've seen these and it would behoove any kiltmaker to post a quick measuring tutorial on you-tube and link it to their website....could clear up any misunderstandings.

Best

AA

**Burly Brute** · 9th December 10, 10:50 AM

Originally Posted by RockyR

I know that you understand it's moot (not mute) point, but just to explain in case others don't... the reason you can't pleat a 5 yarder (or 4 yard in this case) to the sett is b/c each pleat would be 2" wide or so (depending on the size of the sett and the measurements of the kilt). When kiltmakers (including myself) talk about "cheating the sett", it means that we pleat to LESS than the full sett b/c the length of cloth available (4 or 5 yards). When done well, it still makes a nice pattern and doesn't look 'sloppy' or disorganized. Here's an example of a 5 yarder done "cheating the sett":

Please excuse the watermark:

That's awesome!