Why are jackets to be left open?

[Lallans]

Another possibility is that the kilt jacket was originally left open by someone, or a class of people, who wanted quick access to a weapon and the style caught on... when I'm out and about and see that happening with (say) an apparent plainclothes officer walking up to someone, it's a cause of instant hyperalertness on my part- I've been accused of going up on my toes but I'm sure that's an exaggeration.

Personally I 'most always do button my kilt jacket and I guess it's for reasons related to that perception. Or because of the cold.

[piperdbh]

Buttoning the jacket causes it to cover or at least obscure the sporran, plus it covers the top of the kilt which you've spend the big money to acquire.

When you wear britches, the legs (usually) taper in, which causes the waist to look wider. The buttoned suit coat reduces this widening appearance. The kilt, on the other hand, flares out, which makes the waist look slimmer. A buttoned kilt jacket enhances the slimming effect, making the wearer look bottom-heavy. Unbuttoning the jacket allows the shirt to show, which breaks up the lines and makes the wearer look better-proportioned.

What say ye?

[Zardoz]

OK, Who can button their jacket?
I'll admit my build is not athletic, and mine are off the peg clothes, but while the argyll jackets I have generally fit me fine, the matching waistcoat fits as well, it is still a bit of a pull to actually button the jackets. I have always assumed they were just not designed to be buttoned. In fact, my black chrome button argyll didn't even come with the button holes opened.

[artificer]

OK, Who can button their jacket?
I'll admit my build is not athletic, and mine are off the peg clothes, but while the argyll jackets I have generally fit me fine, the matching waistcoat fits as well, it is still a bit of a pull to actually button the jackets. I have always assumed they were just not designed to be buttoned. In fact, my black chrome button argyll didn't even come with the button holes opened.

I can button mine (not that I've ever worn it that way...)

[Frank McGrath]

Because I can't button it around my belly.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I don't think that kilt jackets are left unbuttoned to provide easy access to all sorts of weaponry, or to make it easier to play the pipes (I rather doubt that one person in 100 can actually play the pipes).

Rather, I suspect, it is down to a combination of fashion and technology. The fashion aspect allows one to show off his waistcoat or dirk belt. As far as technology goes, we live in a far warmer environment now than did our friends and family fifty years ago, never mind during the reign of Edward VII or his predecessors. Cars, homes, and places of business all have effective heaters, cheaply keeping everyone toasty warm, or at least comfortable, hence there is less necessity to button up one's kilt jacket or overcoat.

[davidlpope]

I have been wondering for a while why the rule that jackets are to be left undone.

When it comes to suits the rule is the exact opposite. The reason being that this allows the jacket to hang properly and it (on british style suits) to emphasise the waist and make one look slimmer.

So why do you think? I have no idea...

Cheers

My experience makes me believe that your assumptions, above, are incorrect. There's no rule that says kilt jackets should be left open, nor is there a 'rule" that regular suit jackets (leaving double-breasted jackets aside) need always be buttoned.

I wear a suit everyday to work and on Sundays to church. I hardly ever button the jacket closed because it is more comfortable not to. My jackets all fit and can be buttoned, but they are more comfortable open. The only time at work that I do button my jacket is when being introduced to someone for the first time in a "more formal" setting (not to be confused with a "formal attire" setting) or when giving a presentation to those whom I don't know. I recently served as a pall bearer and buttoned my jacket during the service. Likewise when I attend a wedding I typically button my jacket closed.

When I wear my tweed kilt jacket I apply the same practice (buttoned for more formal settings), so as a result, I wear it most often unbuttoned.

Cordially,

David

[Jack Daw]

The best part of this open-kilt jacket "rule" is that if you get a bit pudgier in the belly, the jacket won't necessarily require tailoring.

[Tobus]

My experience makes me believe that your assumptions, above, are incorrect. There's no rule that says kilt jackets should be left open, nor is there a 'rule" that regular suit jackets (leaving double-breasted jackets aside) need always be buttoned.

Actually, for a suit jacket, there are good reasons that it should be buttoned with at least one button when standing. This article explains why.

Now, the 'suit police' aren't going to arrest you if you don't, and you're quite correct that it's not a "rule". But I do think it's a fairly commonly-held consensus amongst the better dressed suit aficionados that, for best effect, even a single-breasted suit should be buttoned when standing. Otherwise, there's no sense it wearing a well-fitted suit.

I remember when my grandfather bought me my first suit, he told me that leaving it unbuttoned while standing was slovenly. Modern suit-wearing styles may have changed that old-school perception, but that's the way I was taught, for what it's worth.

For kilt jackets, I've no clue as to the original reason they're worn unbuttoned, but I do agree that they look better unbuttoned, simply because the 'sweep' of the front when open tends to accentuate the non-vertical lines of the entire kilted look. And to me there's a little enjoyment in doing it that way simply to be 'different from the English'.

[davidlpope]

Actually, for a suit jacket, there are good reasons that it should be buttoned with at least one button when standing. This article explains why.

Now, the 'suit police' aren't going to arrest you if you don't, and you're quite correct that it's not a "rule". But I do think it's a fairly commonly-held consensus amongst the better dressed suit aficionados that, for best effect, even a single-breasted suit should be buttoned when standing. Otherwise, there's no sense it wearing a well-fitted suit.

I'm sure it all makes great theoretical sense inside the pages of "Men's Flair", etc. I'm just explaining the reality of the organization that I work in. A suit is the customary and accepted attire that men wear where I work, it's really not given that much thought. Perhaps it's a consensus "more honored in the breach than the observance" by those of us who don't qualify as "better dressed suit aficionados"...

Are you honestly saying that you wear a suit day in and day out and button/unbutton the jacket every time you rise / sit? If so, I'm impressed.

David


David