Why are jackets to be left open?

[BobsYourUncle]

My experience makes me believe that your assumptions, above, are incorrect. There's no rule that says kilt jackets should be left open, nor is there a 'rule" that regular suit jackets (leaving double-breasted jackets aside) need always be buttoned.

I wear a suit everyday to work and on Sundays to church. I hardly ever button the jacket closed because it is more comfortable not to. My jackets all fit and can be buttoned, but they are more comfortable open. The only time at work that I do button my jacket is when being introduced to someone for the first time in a "more formal" setting (not to be confused with a "formal attire" setting) or when giving a presentation to those whom I don't know. I recently served as a pall bearer and buttoned my jacket during the service. Likewise when I attend a wedding I typically button my jacket closed.

When I wear my tweed kilt jacket I apply the same practice (buttoned for more formal settings), so as a result, I wear it most often unbuttoned.

Cordially,

David

Hear, Hear! The voice of reason at last. I defy anyone to provide any creditable authority for any such "rule" that suit jackets must be buttoned, or any "rule" that kilt jackets must be unbuttoned. Just because someone tells you that there is a "rule" doesn't make it so. Buttoned or unbuttoned is a matter of personal choice, and sometimes the decision is made in regard to the formality of the occasion, but not always.

The conventions of dress may be best learned from one's male relatives, and if they are unable, no longer extant, or not so inclined, there are a number of publications that address such issues, including but not limited to Personal Style, The Man's Guide to Fashion, Fitness, Travel and Entertaining, by James Wagenvoord.

In the end, IMHO, it is best to develop one's own sense of style, which would include an objective view of one's own body and its advantages and flaws, and then you can decide for yourself what "rules" or conventions work for you and which ones don't.

[Jordan]

I'm sure it all makes great theoretical sense inside the pages of "Men's Flair", etc. I'm just explaining the reality of the organization that I work in. A suit is the customary and accepted attire that men wear where I work, it's really not given that much thought. Perhaps it's a consensus "more honored in the breach than the observance" by those of us who don't qualify as "better dressed suit aficionados"...

Are you honestly saying that you wear a suit day in and day out and button/unbutton the jacket every time you rise / sit? If so, I'm impressed.

David


David

I have to wear a suit at my work and can guarantee that I hardly ever button it up. There's just no point
Jordan

[Jock Scot]

Alright it is handy to know the conventions, rules, expectations, call them what you will, but come on! We don't have to follow these things slavishly like brainless sheep now do we? No we don't. Where is our initiative, judgement, ability to assess an occasion and most of all where is our common sense? I know where mine is and I am blowed if I am going to worry about a damn button!

Still it does not hurt to ask questions as it helps with gaining experience and understanding and in consequence we can make informed judgements. And yes, on occasion we can get it wrong! Chances are that you can bluff your way out of a tricky situation and well, dealing with a button is hardly going to exercise the grey matter by much.

[davedove]

Jock is completely right.

Now, I have nothing against doing things a certain way, even if the only reason is that "it's just done that way." But, I do like to know the reasons why.

I suspect that if one were able to go back in time, one might find that the jackets are worn that way because a certain king or other notable figure wore his that way. Why? Because he got too fat and could no longer button the jacket. I don't know, and probably nobody really knows, but it is a good theory.

of course, I also like MoR's response. The jacket is worn open so you can show off your colorful waistcoat, or the intricrate detailing on your belt.

[rtc872]

I must say that I button up every time I stand at work. Mostly because I payed good money to have suits that fit me well and I am not going to waste the cost by wearing it open. On a cheaper suit I probably wouldn't be so concerned.

When you wear britches, the legs (usually) taper in, which causes the waist to look wider. The buttoned suit coat reduces this widening appearance. The kilt, on the other hand, flares out, which makes the waist look slimmer. A buttoned kilt jacket enhances the slimming effect, making the wearer look bottom-heavy. Unbuttoning the jacket allows the shirt to show, which breaks up the lines and makes the wearer look better-proportioned.

I like this explanation. Not because it is right, I found many points made to be valid reasons, but because it really makes sense.

I imagine that there are so many reasons for what we do that no single explanation fits the bill.

Thank you all for such a great discussion and I feel that I have learned from reading it.

Cheers

[artificer]

I must say that I button up every time I stand at work. Mostly because I payed good money to have suits that fit me well and I am not going to waste the cost by wearing it open. On a cheaper suit I probably wouldn't be so concerned.

***.

If you've got to wear a suit, it's a JOY to have a beautifully tailored one. Buttoning up shows off many suits to their best (and yours) advantage.

This is especially true if you DO taper down from shoulder to waist.

Certain 'deconstructed' suits (think higher end 'fashion') with softer jackets should be worn open only, as they aren't tailored the same way as a business suit.

[Tobus]

I'm sure it all makes great theoretical sense inside the pages of "Men's Flair", etc. I'm just explaining the reality of the organization that I work in. A suit is the customary and accepted attire that men wear where I work, it's really not given that much thought. Perhaps it's a consensus "more honored in the breach than the observance" by those of us who don't qualify as "better dressed suit aficionados"...

Are you honestly saying that you wear a suit day in and day out and button/unbutton the jacket every time you rise / sit? If so, I'm impressed.

David

Well, no, I don't wear a suit every day. And I'll not presume to say what's acceptable in your work place or not, as obviously you will know that better than I. I sense that my use of the phrase "better dressed suit aficionados" struck a nerve with you, and I didn't mean it to sound catty. Sorry if it came across that way.

When I do wear a suit, though, I try to follow the protocols I mentioned, and for the reasons in the article I referenced (which others here seem to agree with as well). I just find that, for me, leaving a suit coat open throws off the proportions. The front of the jacket wants to hang down, which makes the sides swing back a little, and the whole effect is ruined. But then again, I only wear suits for dressy occasions, not everyday office work. So I can completely understand that it would be a pain if you're doing a lot of sitting/standing.

I do notice, though, in watching older movies and even current politicians and such, that many of them have made it an unconscious action. When they get up, one hand automatically moves to close one button of the jacket, and by the time they're standing, all is in order and hanging correctly. It seems to be one of those little details of being a well-dressed gentleman that makes them look suave, and naturally comfortable with it (which is not to imply that you're not well-dressed or suave if you don't). It may not be a 'rule', but it does seem to be a convention or tradition that people used to follow. And like I said, modern trends may have left it behind.

Enough with my portion of the thread-jack, though.

[azwildcat96]

or to make it easier to play the pipes (I rather doubt that one person in 100 can actually play the pipes).

I would suspect that it's more likely 1 piper in 100 can actually play the pipes.

[piperdbh]

I would suspect that it's more likely 1 piper in 100 can actually play the pipes.

Ouch!

[BoldHighlander]

I would suspect that it's more likely 1 piper in 100 can actually play the pipes.

Ouch!

Yeah, and they call me a troublemaker!