HOS revisited: 1860s Day Dress

[artificer]

Thank you.

I'm glad to be of service

ith:

[Dale Seago]

The book is called:
The Highlanders of Scotland: The Complete Watercolours Commissioned by Queen Victoria from Kenneth MacLeay of her Scottish Retainers and Clansman

the author is Delia Millar.

As for a sporran made of highland cow, I'm sure most of the people out in the highlands at this time had a sporran made from whatever they could get their hands on, assuming they were still wearing highland dress.

You'll find, MacGuffin, that this book and topic is a bit of a sore spot for some native Highlanders. The people of the area have had a rather difficult time, financially AND politically over the centuries.

They tend to be rather frustrated (and rightfully so) when people interpret these images as "What the average Highland man wore" rather than "a group of Royal retainers depicted in all their finery by Royal request."

To hear these men speak of it. the answer to nearly every "What did the average Highlander wear for X (hose, kilt, jacket, et)?" the answer invariably is "whatever they could scratch together".

In short, just keep in mind that the men depicted are NOT average men simply going about their day. They are Royal staff or VERY well to do friends of the queen.

That said, the images are GORGEOUS, and an excellent record of the fashions the well-positioned could roll out in at the time.

ith:

That information should be forever stickyfied for posterity.

[Ryan Ross]

That information should be forever stickyfied for posterity.

Agreed. Well said, Scott.


...I also feel glad seeing it pointed out that most of these fellows wear no visible garters and no kilt pin.

For my part, I'd like to mention that none of these men have the large, pool ball sized toories on their bonnets that are associated with modern Balmorals! ...I still haven't figured out how that fad caught on.

[Drac]

Gotta ask, do well made argle (or any patterned sock) really line that well up when cuffed or is that artistic liberties?

Jim

[MacGuffin]

Thank you Artificer for the information, I'll be search for the book in the meantime (hopefully I won't break the bank in the process).Though the watercolors are pleasing to the eye it is obvious that these are not a record of how the common Highland man dressed and should be taken with a grain of salt.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Gotta ask, do well made argle (or any patterned sock) really line that well up when cuffed or is that artistic liberties?

Jim

Yes, when you order custom Argyle or diced hose, the pattern on the cuff should line up with the pattern on the sock.

Here are some examples from my own closet:

[MacBean]

The economic conditions in Scotland and more especially in the USA have improved, and many here consider emulating traditional dress. There are those who'd prefer that we emulate current traditions in highland dress, and those who are fond of the more elaborate possibilities shown in these illustrations. I see no harm in keeping the more elaborate styles in vogue as well as the simpler fare.

I myself occasionally opt for a much more rustic style (my own imagination), where I adapt Salvation Army or other recycled clothes that may be not be perfectly sized. I've some knitted vests my Mom made for me 40 years ago that are a bit short, but are perfect for kilt atire. It works for me.

[BoldHighlander]

Gotta ask, do well made argle (or any patterned sock) really line that well up when cuffed or is that artistic liberties?

Yes, when you order custom Argyle or diced hose, the pattern on the cuff should line up with the pattern on the sock.

Here's another example, from around 1910:

The book is called:
The Highlanders of Scotland: The Complete Watercolours Commissioned by Queen Victoria from Kenneth MacLeay of her Scottish Retainers and Clansman

the author is Delia Millar.

You'll find, MacGuffin, that this book and topic is a bit of a sore spot for some native Highlanders. The people of the area have had a rather difficult time, financially AND politically over the centuries.

They tend to be rather frustrated (and rightfully so) when people interpret these images as "What the average Highland man wore" rather than "a group of Royal retainers depicted in all their finery by Royal request."

In short, just keep in mind that the men depicted are NOT average men simply going about their day. They are Royal staff or VERY well to do friends of the queen.

Hear! Hear!
....a bit of background on the prints:

THE QUEEN'S WATERCOLOURS
Scottish Life Magazine - Winter 2003

WHEN QUEEN VICTORIA COMMISSIONED PORTRAITS OF THE HIGHLAND CLANSMEN SHE KNEW AND ADMIRED, SHE UNWITTINGLY CAPTURED A FINAL CHAPTER OF HIGHLAND HISTORY.

Queen Victoria's passion for Highlanders, their language and their dress is well known, but one of the most remarkable aspects of this enthusiasm has been largely forgotten in recent times. In the early summer of 1865, the monarch commissioned from Scottish miniaturist, Kenneth MacLeay, a number of watercolours of her family and retainers at Balmoral Castle in Deeside. After seeing these initial portraits, the Queen then decided to expand the project and have MacLeay paint representatives of the principal Highland clans.

The men in these portraits were chosen by the clan chiefs themselves and are wearing the most authentic tartans, showing in detail the historic insignia and accoutrements of their clans. When the set of 31 watercolours was exhibited in Bond Street, London in 1869, it caused a sensation, and a limited edition printing of the portraits in 1870 is now highly prized.

The relaxed, distinguished men shown by MacLeay give no impression of the difficulties under which many of them grew up -- and were still living. After the 1745 rebellion, the Highland way of life quickly changed. Chiefs became absentee landlords. Lack of work and lack of food moved some landlords to encourage Highlanders to leave their homes, while others were forcibly evicted. The great emigration to the colonies began, further emptying the land. So today, these nearly forgotten portraits, now preserved in the Royal Library at Winsdor Castle, not only provide one of the most authentic pictures of Highland dress, but also give a compelling snapshot of a moment in time -- of a people and a landscape now lost to history.

That said, the images are GORGEOUS, and an excellent record of the fashions the well-positioned could roll out in at the time.

I love these series of prints. They do capture a moment in time, however as has been stated, we must remember that they were in their finest dress, or the dress of gentlemen, not the dress of the average Highlander who chose to wear traditional highland dress.

Here's what one might call a more realistic look at every day rural highland wear during the later half of the 19th century /early 20th century:



Not so romantic a view, eh?
The image is of young Donald MacDonald, of Kinagarry, Arisaig, photographed by Miss M E M Donaldson about 1900-1910. He is dressed in tattered re-made garments representing the twilight of tartan as everyday wear of Highlanders
(from TARTAN by Hugh Cheape).

Having said that, however, I think the Highlanders of Scotland has such a timeless look to it, that it is a great resource to inspire todays traditional kilt wearers.

[Dale Seago]

There's another that should be forever stickyfied.

[OC Richard]

I should point out that in the photos I posted no belts, buckles, or other "finery" makes any appearance. Most of the men are wearing quite plain brown or grey jackets, jackets so ordinary that we don't see them worn with kilts often today.

Actually there's one bit of finery, the relic brooch being held and displayed (not being worn) by one man.

Three things stand out in these images which differentiate their plain dress from 20th century "day" dress

1) wearing plaids wrapped around the body rather than sitting on one shoulder per the 20th century style (the so called "laird's plaid")

2) wearing long hair sporrans with plain dress. I point out that these long hair sporrans were the common style of the day and were worn with all modes of dress. We today expect the plain leather pocket "day" sporrans with ordinary dress but these aren't seen at that time, and it's anachronistic for us to expect mid-19th century men to follow 20th century styles and wear 20th century things.

3) wearing tartan or diced hose with plain dress. Yes in the early 20th century Highland dress became compartmentalised with tartan or diced hose reserved for evening, but again we need to guard against projecting 20th century styles on the mid 19th century. Note, by the way, that the tartan hose are usually of a different tartan than the kilt.