Need measurement help, got pics

[AKScott]

Two pics here. This is a used kilt I picked up in the for sale section to get my measurements right.

The kilt I am wearing, I am not worried about the aprons. I moved both buckles three inches. I am not looking to perfect this kilt, what I do want to do is order a tank and have it come in fitting correctly.

What has been driving my local tailors crazy, besides never having measured anyone for a kilt before, is my legs are different lengths.

As pictured this one is riding a full hand width, four fingers and a thumb above my navel.

Does the hem look like it is about the right place? Should I maybe raise the bottom edge a little more? Can you tell my kneecaps are 1/2" apart vertically?

Second, the sewn down part of the pleats on this one ends about 4" above the widest part of my hips.

My chosen kilt maker is a supporting vendor here, I'll mail this thing in to them if I need to.

If you were about to order a tank, what dimensions would you change from this one pictured?

Thanks.

Oh yes, pics:

[AKScott]

FWIW I am 5'10" between 185 and 190 pounds for several months, I can buy pants "off the peg" as it were. 178cm x 86 kiklos.

[rtc872]

I would talk to whomever you are planning to buy the tank from. Each kiltmaker uses a slightly different system and are usually quite patient at explaining what they need.

As a general guideline you normally measure around your belly button with a flat hand between you and the tape. You also need the widest part around the bum and finally a measurement from your bellybutton to mid-knee. The best way to do this is get someone to have you kneel and measure from your belly button to the floor. NB don't look down. that shortens the measurement but an inch or more.

Hope that helps

[AKScott]

I would talk to whomever you are planning to buy the tank from. Each kiltmaker uses a slightly different system and are usually quite patient at explaining what they need.

Definitely #1 on the list.

I think the knees are about right as pictured but I can lower the top of the waist a couple finger widths and have the bottom edge of the fell come quite lower.

I have been to three tailors and have a range of measurements that all fall within two inches of each other. I gave up measuring myself, even with the door jam method Steve Ashton provided in a video because I couldn't get repeatable results. My future step daughter has measured me up. My fiance has measured me up. I tried the towel now tape measure later method. I offered my local pipe band a bottle of Glen Kinchey nine days ago looking for a kilt close to my size I could try on just to get the fool length correct, and I got nothing.

So I bought a used kilt and I am asking for the rabble's help. Does that look about right?

Thanks.

[Paul Henry]

Every kiltmaker has slightly different ways of working /measuring, so the advice is... talk to whichever maker you are using.
Things like the bottom of the kilt should be no longer than the top/middle knee cap are relatively standard though.
The height above the naval is open to more interpretation, some like a very high rise (the height above the navel) some a smaller one, that is for you and the kiltmaker to decide.
Usually the sewn fell is about one third of the length of the kilt, but generally it stops at the widest part of your bottom, that means the pleats can swing free from the"shelf" your bottom makes.
Who ever you decide to use, trust their measuring system,as they are the ones sewing, and don't judge a kilt size against your trouser size, they will be different!

[rtc872]

Look that doesn't look bad for knee length. To be honest though that length is up to you. If you want it to be at the bottom of knee, mid knee or above the knee that is just personal preference. If you don't have a preference yet then I would advice against too long as the pleats rubbing against your calves as you walk can get old fast.

Most makers have a rise (the difference between your belly button and the top of the kilt) of about an inch. That doesn't mean that is where the kilt has to sit. If you find that you want to drop the bottom of the kilt or raise the kilt an inch all it takes is tightening or loosening the buckles of the kilt. The kilt is reasonably flexible in that way.

As a guide I reckon the length you are after is somewhere between the 22 and 24 inch range. That is a big range I know but if you get someone to measure from your belly button to the ground while kneeling you can't go wrong. also don't go including the rise in your measurement as the maker while normally include that themselves.

The belly button measurement is where the buckles are supposed to sit.

I really hope I am helping and not confusing you. Just keep posting questions and we'll keep trying to answer. We all know how nerve wracking it is because you don't want to throw your money away.

Cheers

[MacMillans son]

You're not alone on the leg issue. My legs are the same length, but one knee is higher than the other by about 5/8 inch. It doesn't sound like much but it can be crazy making!! I had a similar struggle as you with kilt length and a full length mirror, "up a little more too short on the left...down a little more sh*# too long on the right!!" It took a bit of fiddling with it and then one post construction alteration ( a big job for the kilt maker of shortening the rise, lengthening the pleats) to get the length right. I still dink around with my kilt hose every time I put them on because the same issue occurs with them, only on the bottom of my knees!! Ohhhhh, the trials and tribulations of the kilted life

My suggestion on the kilt fit would be to do what you are doing, use the kilt you have to decide where you would like the new kilt to sit. Basic guidelines for traditional kilts are at or above the navel, rarely below that. And for length, an inch or so above the knee to mid knee, never below that. Of course, there are no kilt police, but those are the conventional points to wear a kilt.

Tell your kilt maker where you would like the kilt to sit, as learned from your experimenting, and they will tell you how to take the measurements based on their style.

Not a bad problem to have really

Good luck!

[seanachie]

Most makers have a rise (the difference between your belly button and the top of the kilt) of about an inch. That doesn't mean that is where the kilt has to sit. If you find that you want to drop the bottom of the kilt or raise the kilt an inch all it takes is tightening or loosening the buckles of the kilt. The kilt is reasonably flexible in that way.

I am not in any way picking on this posting, but this is why the need to speak with your kilt maker is super important and making sure you communicate well. I had bought a couple of PV kilts from one kiltmaker and was used to his measurement system. Then I ordered my first wool kilt from Keltoi (John is excellent) and when you select the length in his system you include a 2" rise. Totally of my doing, I jacked this up by not correctly understanding. Fortunately John thought the measurements looked wrong and queried me. This save me from a real disaster.

[fluter]

AKScott,

Looks good. It's a good idea to know how you're going to want to wear the kilt; so you've made a good investment.

I like the length where you're wearing it, but you could adjust up or down an inch to suit yourself. Just find your preferred length, and figure out where that is on one of your knees. Then always measure to that point on that knee.

People will conventionally speak of the waist being at navel height. Please immediately forget that you heard that. You need to determine where your natural waist lies, and that my or may not be at the navel. Usually it is nearby, though!

One suggestion is to put your thumbs & forefingers at the waist, and lean left and right. A little crease should form where your skin wants to bend, and that's likely where you want the straps. Have someone observe and measure you snugly at that point.

The goal is to place the straps where they will hold the kilt most securely. There will be a rise (consult your kiltmaker) often 1.5 or 2 inches above the center of the straps. Your kiltmaker may deal in overall length, or in rise plus drop; but find out what kind of rise you'll get.

The hip measurement can be tricky (or simple). Your hipbones may make the greatest dimension a smidgen below the apex of the buttocks. If you have very muscular thighs, the largest point might be even lower, and that will need to be accounted for. You look to have more of an average shape, so this may be easy. This measurement should be relatively loose, perhaps adding couple of fingers.

Happy kilting!

[Pleater]

There is nothing like tailoring to thow up all the little oddities of shape Human's develop as they grow.

I think that the waist of the test kilt is not horizontal (assuming your house is built right) - possibly you stand with one hip raised to counteract the difference in leg length.

If you plan to wear your kilt with a belt that could alter the way the kilt sits at waist level, and could shorten it a little.

I think that the test kilt is slightly long, an inch or so - but that is only because I wear kilts in all weathers and in the rain a kilt edge that catches the crease at the back of the knee can get very painful, should the wind be pressing the pleats against you it can feel as though sandpaper is being drawn across the joint.

With a belt the length could be just right. The kilt is usually worn rather higher than trousers, as that divides the body into its best proportions and is most flattering. If worn too low it can make for a rather unfortunate 'ice cream cone' look. With the fell being rather shorter than you need that kilt might have been worn lower, but I don't think it would have looked as good.

Giving your kilt maker the measurements of the test kilt, including the division of the pleat to apron measurment at hip and waist, comments on the fit, or lack of it, and the photographs of you wearing it should be of some help, but as others have said, the measurements requested by individual makers should be taken carefully.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: