ok , it's hard to read in my original post.
what i have here is an extremely heavy fabric, way way heavier than 16oz, black watch ?, close to 8 yrd kilt.
it has been repaired a few times, and not too professionally , more like the owner was trying to fix things that were broken/worn out using things at hand. see last pic of straps and such i already removed from kilt.
what has got me a bit buffaloed is that the pleats seem to have been reversed AFTER the kilt was made and before the liner put in. see the pic where the tape is stuck into the pleats, 1/4" in one direction right at the bottom of the fell and 2 3/4 in the other just below where the liner is sewn to the inside pleats. but the pleats now purposefully reversed are also going in the wrong direction.. ???
i haven't started to remove the liner yet to see what is happening under there, and whether the top of the pleats have been cut away.
there doesn't seem to be any under pleats, and perhaps the pleated section seems to be proportionally small compared to the aprons.
sooo... i'm thinking this kilt was altered to fit a larger waist size, possibly by taking the under pleats and adding them to the aprons. perhaps the liner was also altered at this time.. if so then this was done by a far more professional tailor than the last few repairs.
why the pleats got reversed is a mystery so far. i see that the pleats supposedly set to stripe, but the stripe is on what is now the INSIDE of the kilt. i haven't looked carefully to see if some possible mistake was made that required the kilt to be finished inside out. i suspect some explanation may be found under the liner.
another interesting thing of notice is that the inner apron does not seem to ever have had a strap, nor are there strap 'button holes' in the fell portion of the kilt.
ideas, conjectures and suggestions will be appreciated
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