double wide?

[Spartan Tartan]

This may be a simple question, but what is the deal with double wide cloth?

I've notices several threads looking to collect a group order and I see things like: 6 yards single width, or 4 yards double width, or some similar. Is 8 yards single = 4 yards double? If so, what is the advantage to ordering yardage one way over the other?

Thanks!

[davidlpope]

This may be a simple question, but what is the deal with double wide cloth?

I've notices several threads looking to collect a group order and I see things like: 6 yards single width, or 4 yards double width, or some similar. Is 8 yards single = 4 yards double? If so, what is the advantage to ordering yardage one way over the other?

Thanks!

Single width cloth is approximately 30 inches wide. Double width cloth is approximately 60 inches wide. So, yes, 1 yard DW = 2 yard SW.

Two advantages to using SW fabric-
1. For asymmetric tartans (Hunting Stewart, Old MacMillan, Buchanan, etc.) you can't split DW fabric for a kilt.
2. No join seam in the pleats of the kilt

The major advantage to DW fabric is that it is cheaper (you only need half as much for a kilt). For short custom weaves, though, you'll probably order through Dalgliesh and be limited to SW.

That being said, most mills only offer a particular tartan/color scheme in one or the other. So, you'll more likely choose a specific tartan based on weight, color scheme, price, etc. before getting to SW/DW as a factor.

David

[The Wizard of BC]

It is not so much an advantage or option, it has to do with the Tartan and the loom that weaves it.

Some weaving companies have looms that weave all fabric double-width, or between 54" and 60" wide.

Some looms weave single-width fabric.

Where the width of the fabric comes into play is knowing that 4 yards of double-width fabric will produce an 8 yard kilt.
So when you buy fabric it is essential that you know the width.

For example, if you want to make an 8 yard kilt. Knowing that you only have to buy 4 yards of double-width fabric is a good thing.
If you are having fabric specially woven by, say for example D.C. Dalgliesh, you need to buy a full 8 yards because most of it is woven single-width.

And some Tartans are assymetrical. If you buy 4 yards of double-width fabric in an assymetrical Tartan you may have to plan on hemming the kilt because the pattern may not line up when ripped and joined back together.
Or you buy 8 yards double-width. You use one half (a length of 8 yards single-width) for your kilt and share or sell the other half.

[Spartan Tartan]

Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the responses.

[Ancienne Alliance]

If you want a decent Day Plaid, double width is better.


Best,

Robert

[Paul Henry]

On the subject of assymetric tartans, I've found that most weavers know which tartan is or isn't assymetric and actually offer an 8 yards split length automatically when needed. Of course it's good to check as well, but I think it unlikely that you would have to buy 8 yards d/w if you only needed a kilt length in an assymetric tartan

[AKScott]

I agree with all the above, though I have yet to deal with an assymetric pattern.

Basically, any loom is going to have a selvedge of some kind on each edge. The kilt maker does need selvedge at the bottom of the kilt so it doesn't fray, but doesn't need selvedge at the top of the kilt.

If they did need selvedge at both edges, every kilt would have to be woven at your total kilt length. 23.5" for me, 25.0" for you, 24.5" for that other guy...what a nightmare.

The one piece of House of Edgar yardage I bought came labeled with a "face" side, the one piece of Strome yardage I have bought did not.

I think if you have both an assymetrical tartan and a face side you are between a rock and a hard place with doublewide. If you split a piece of that double wide down the middle and turn one piece 180° to join the other you could have the same pleat reveal all the way around, but the pleat depth L-> R will be mirror images. If it is going to be I think Kingussie pleated that could be stunning, but with standard knife pleating it might be jarring.

I am really glad all of my clan patterns are symetrical I think. That hurt to think about.

[Paul Henry]

AKScott,you raise a reasonable point about the "face" of a fabric , but these days there is often not much difference between the faces, of course there is the direction of the twill line to consider as well, but sometimes even that isn't as important as getting a good side. Lochcarron does not neccessarily keep to the traditional guides to "face" and "twill" sides.
The bottom line is: for an assymetric tartan you wouldn't buy a 4 yd d/w unless there was no other option.

[Spartan Tartan]

So if I were looking to get symetric tartan for an 8 yd, knife pleated kilt, whether I get 8 yds single-width or 4 yds double-width is not something to worry about. I know that one tartan I hope to have a kilt from is readily available.

However, the other (Michigan Up North) is not readily available from anything I am able to find--but I believe it to be symmetric.

Thanks again!

[Father Bill]

Okay . . . I came here to learn and I'm doing so, but that usually means that we find new questions to ask.

Can somebody please show me a "symmetrical" and an "asymmetrical" tartan? To me they all look symmetrical, and in that I guess I'm showing honest ignorance.