true tartan hose (not diced+lines)

[Bugbear]

This means that cloth stockings can be put on and feel loose but when pulled up and secured they narrow to the shape of the leg. To get a close fitting fabric sock it would probably be easiest to use concealed zips.

That's an interesting idea, Pleater. I had tried to think up a way that drawstring/hidden lacing could be used in the ankle area keeping them from being baggy hose, since there is already a seam there in the first place.

[OC Richard]

On the topic of 18th century hose made from woven tartan yardage, I made a pair for myself many years ago to wear at the Renaissance Faire.

I used the pattern in Sketchbook 76.

I was surprised by 1) how easy they were to make 2) how well they fit and 3) how comfortable they were.

I used thick slightly fuzzy wool in a simple brown and black plaid, so that the resulting hose look like diced hose.

Held up with wool braid garters.

[Dixiecat]

Dressmaking on the bias is an interesting experience and can result in garments several sizes too small

I'm sure you mean 'too large' not too small.

[Pleater]

I'm sure you mean 'too large' not too small.

No - what happens is the fabric extends under the influence of gravity, and the horizontal measurements reduce. Bias cut fabric really is a whole different system of construction.

I saw a dress with a bias cut bodice which was 21 inches across when laid flat and barely 17 when on a hanger. The skirt was quite heavy and when worn the waist seam migrated downwards, the bodice constricted and gave a feeling of suffocation, and distorted the anatomy in most disconcerting ways.

It was only prevented from causing slow asphyxiation by having a sturdy lining inserted to hold the weight of the skirt - at which point the bodice did become looser than intended and an extra inch had to be invented into the length.

With many garments the cut is only half the battle - you then need to know what is underneath the first layer.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Dixiecat]

No - what happens is the fabric extends under the influence of gravity, and the horizontal measurements reduce. Bias cut fabric really is a whole different system of construction.

I saw a dress with a bias cut bodice which was 21 inches across when laid flat and barely 17 when on a hanger. The skirt was quite heavy and when worn the waist seam migrated downwards, the bodice constricted and gave a feeling of suffocation, and distorted the anatomy in most disconcerting ways.

It was only prevented from causing slow asphyxiation by having a sturdy lining inserted to hold the weight of the skirt - at which point the bodice did become looser than intended and an extra inch had to be invented into the length.

With many garments the cut is only half the battle - you then need to know what is underneath the first layer.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

Well, yes, gravity would do that with a dress or skirt, but I was thinking like sleeves and collars and such. That's what I thought was meant when using woven patterns with bias. My misunderstanding.