Calling all professional and amateur tailors...

[sydnie7]

Here are some links that might prove helpful. I've got a tailored jacket for Bob in the works, but it has taken a far back seat to other priorities (not all fun). Do let us know how it turns out!

A coat "sew-along" with many links at lower right

More than you ever knew about buttonholes!

"Made by hand" -- this blog has some great shots of inner details of bespoke garments

Bergen Tailor Supplies -- link is to interfacing page but they have oodles of other goodies

[fluter]

Sydnie, thanks for those links! I am a fan of tutto fatto a mano.


Here are 2 books I have enjoyed reading. I've only applied the ideas to modifying some jackets; I'm still a wannabe tailor.

Classic Tailoriing Techniques describes hard-core, old fashioned suit construction.

Tailoring: the classic guide... is a new edition of a book showing hand and machine technique, sewn-in and fusible interfacing, in various combinations. I have the first edition, which Amazon still lists (also a Kindle edition; no Nook AFAIK).

[Dixiecat]

I have some heavyweight hymo that I've used in a kilt on hand. What I'm wondering is whether it might be too heavy...especially with 11oz. fabric. Do I need to go lighter weight?

Yes, the heavyweight hymo is too much for your vest front. I'd suggest something in between what you used the first time and the hymo. If you are using tartan for the back and not satin, you could use a light-weight interfacing, but that might be something to decide once you've gotten to a certain point.

[longhuntr74]

Yes, the heavyweight hymo is too much for your vest front. I'd suggest something in between what you used the first time and the hymo. If you are using tartan for the back and not satin, you could use a light-weight interfacing, but that might be something to decide once you've gotten to a certain point.

It's funny...I got the opposite answer from another quite accomplished tailor/seamstress. I was leaning towards your opinion...thinking that the heavyweight hymo might be too heavy...until I washed it/shrunk it. It's much more flexible now...and doesn't feel too bad.

Now all that being said, this 11oz. tartan has a considerable amount of give to it. I'm thinking that a fusible woven might be preferable to Hymo due to it's ability to stabilize the fabric itself. Any thoughts Dixiecat or others? Also, how many layers of interfacing should I have at the buttons and buttonholes. I'm thinking that I want some heavyweight hymo there in addition to any other interfacing I may use, yes? If I do, should it extend all the way up along the neckline to the collar, or just tack it where the buttons will be and let the buttons and/or buttonholes keep it in place once the garment is complete?

Gabe...where are you on this thread? Need your input, as I know you've made some tartan garments lately!