Kilt material differences.

**tpa** · 18th May 11, 10:43 AM

Never having made a kilt, but thinking about it, I would be interested if anyone could explain the differences between the kilt materials available from the Scottish mills, Lochcarron, Dalgliesh, Marton, House of Edgar, Strathmore and how these differences impact on the kilt manufacture. I'm not asking about different tartans or sett sizes, but about the characteristic stiffness or softness of the basic wools used. If I've missed a mill, please add it in. I appreciate price is also a factor but wear-ability is more important.

**Paul Henry** · 18th May 11, 11:07 AM

It's not always simple to explain differences, they are all good, and I'm sure we all have favourites, but another thing to consider is that not all weavers do all the tartans, so sometimes you have to go with a weaver that might not be the first on your list.
I enjoy using Dalgleish because it has a lovely "hand" sews up really well and takes a crease really easily and well. Lochcarron is one I use as well, the cloth (Strome)is a little firmer, slightly less soft than Dalgleish, Marton Mills(not actually Scottish , they are in West Yorkshire) is a more commercial harder fabric, but easy to use, and very reasonably priced. Strathmore is generally a little soft for me, but if the client wants a tartan they they carry I'm happy to use it.House of Edgar is fine, not as soft as Strathmore, but they do carry a great range of "old and Rare" tartans.

So the bottom line for me is to find a weaver that carries the one I want, and then work out if the client is happy with it!
Of course it's always possible to get someone ( Dalgleish) to weave a special for you, but that is usually the more expensive route

**Calico** · 18th May 11, 12:51 PM

And you can only compare them one weight/fabric at a time, or it is like comparing red apples to green apples.

I would say paulhenry's response was basically about 16oz wool, what most of us consider "standard kilting fabric".

Marton Mills is alone in making quality P/V as far as I know.

Dalgeish has the best kilting selvedge.

Lochcarron Strome has the highest recognition factor (totally subjective - see Riverkilts signature line)

**RockyR** · 18th May 11, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by Calico

Marton Mills is alone in making quality P/V as far as I know.

True and not true... Yes, of the UK based mills, Marton Mills is the only one to weave PV cloth. There ARE OTHER mills (in Pakistan and China) that weave PV cloth in tartans, but the quality of the cloth is far inferior. The problem is that not all PV cloth is created equal and some cloth that is NOT PV (Acrylic, Cotton Poly, etc) states that it is. If you choose to order a PV kilt, ASK THE COMPANY where the cloth was woven. If they can't answer or if the price is too good to be ture, it probably is.

That small issue aside, I agree for the most part with PaulHenry on his assessment of the different mills and their cloth. Each mill has their + and their -. Kelly's favorite mill is House of Edgar. Mine is probably Lochcarron.

That being said... it's like asking someone which car they'd rather have... a Porsche, a Ferarri, or a Lamborghini.** While everyone has an opinion, I'm sure the average guy on the street would be 'pleased as punch' with ANY of those in his driveway. Same goes for the different mills.

**NO COMMENTS ON MY CAR ANAOLOGY... I know I've probably spelled something wrong or someone will point out a car I didn't think about or have an opinion on one or all of the makes I listed above.

**Barb T** · 18th May 11, 02:30 PM

I've actually always been struck by how little overlap there actually is in the tartans that the major mills weave. Strathmore doesn't have stock weaves in 16 oz tartan. House of Edgar has a ton of 14 oz tartans and relatively few 16 oz tartans. Lochcarron is just the opposite. Dalgliesh has a huge range of 11-12 oz dress tartans for dancers and stocks very few 16 oz tartans, and you'd go to House of Edgar for the few regimental weight tartans that are out there. And some individual tartans are available from only one mill.

So, if you combine tartan weight and tartan pattern, you will likely have only one option unless you are looking at a common tartan. If you're flexible about tartan weight, you have more options. And, if you have to have a particular less common tartan in a particular weight, it's likely to mean a custom weave.

To me, the Cadillac of tartan (mixing metaphors from previous posts!) is D.C. Dalgliesh custom weave. But, as Rocky says, it's a very individual thing. My least favorite by a mile is F&K, although I haven't made a kilt from their tartan in over year, and they might have changed.

**tpa** · 18th May 11, 03:35 PM

Thank you all very much for all your very prompt replies; they give me plenty to think about and research.

Barbara, would not have known who F&K were without the benefit of your excellent book. Being UK based, I'll stick with UK sources for the time being until I feel the need to try out Freedom or Alt. kilts.

**KiltedKnome** · 18th May 11, 07:19 PM

Originally Posted by tpa

Barbara, would not have known who F&K were without the benefit of your excellent book. Being UK based, I'll stick with UK sources for the time being until I feel the need to try out Freedom or Alt. kilts.

I was not sure from your quote whether you were confused as to what F&K was. This is Fraser and Kirkbright, a weaving company based in Vancouver, British Columbia -- not to be confused with either Freedom Kilts or Alt Kilts. F&K produces a lovely cloth -- including tartan -- made of merino wool which is ideal for a number of creations.

**tpa** · 19th May 11, 02:48 AM

Originally Posted by KiltedKnome

I was not sure from your quote whether you were confused as to what F&K was. This is Fraser and Kirkbright, a weaving company based in Vancouver, British Columbia -- not to be confused with either Freedom Kilts or Alt Kilts. F&K produces a lovely cloth -- including tartan -- made of merino wool which is ideal for a number of creations.

Sorry for that Barbara, thank you for clarifying. I realised you were talking about Fraser and Kirkbright because you have them listed in the Art of Kltmaking. From what you have said, I gather their tartan is more suitable for scarfs, plaids, skirts an other items which do not need a pleat. Does having a different "hand" mean that it would not look right if worn with a garment in the same traditional Scottish tartan ?

**ChattanCat** · 19th May 11, 03:15 AM

Hand refers to the feel of the fabric. A soft fabric will be very puffy, compressible, the ultimate soft fabric would be flannel or even fleece. But I take it to the extreme. Hard would be worsted wool as the fibers are combed to align all the fibers and when you run your hand across the fabric, it may feel very smooth and "hard". Furniture fabric is more hard than soft, in fact some of the materials that the mills make is destined to be made for a tartan couch.

Welcome to the kilt making addiction. (Thank you Barb)

**slohairt** · 19th May 11, 07:34 AM

Originally Posted by Calico

And you can only compare them one weight/fabric at a time, or it is like comparing red apples to green apples.

I would say paulhenry's response was basically about 16oz wool, what most of us consider "standard kilting fabric".

Marton Mills is alone in making quality P/V as far as I know.

Dalgeish has the best kilting selvedge.

Lochcarron Strome has the highest recognition factor (totally subjective - see Riverkilts signature line)

House of Edgar (excluding Hebridean, Nevis, and Dark Island) fabric has a selvedge as good as Dalgliesh's. As does some of Strathmore's cloth.