Determining the fabric weight of a wool kilt

**CDNSushi** · 15th June 11, 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by azwildcat96

Here's an idea...If you're really worried that your kilt maker is going to try to sell you an inferior fabric, then run away to another kilt maker!

Of course, having at least SOME trust in the vendor is only fair and logical, otherwise we'd never be able to buy anything. But in some situations, and in mine particularly, there was actual reason to be a bit concerned.

The back story (or the short version thereof) is that when I initially ordered the kilt, I was informed that there would be a significant delay, due to the fact that the 13oz fabric I wanted had to be brought in, as it wasn't in stock... OR, I was told, they had 11oz fabric in-stock if I wanted to change my order.

I informed them that I would prefer to wait for the 13oz... But that experience DID make me wonder if perhaps some signals got crossed somewhere and something wasn't communicated properly.

I can also see this as being useful when, say, you buy a used kilt from eBay or similar, and there was no information given (perhaps the seller didn't know themselves) what the weight of the fabric was... I wasn't trying to imply that kiltmakers are inherently a shifty lot who shouldn't be trusted.

**slohairt** · 15th June 11, 06:41 PM

Also, keep in mind that not every mills' 16 oz. (or 13 oz.) cloth is exactly the same weight. They technically measure their cloth in metric (grams per metre) and then round it to the nearest ounce.

**CDNSushi** · 15th June 11, 07:13 PM

Originally Posted by slohairt

Also, keep in mind that not every mills' 16 oz. (or 13 oz.) cloth is exactly the same weight. They technically measure their cloth in metric (grams per metre) and then round it to the nearest ounce.

Yeah, that's something that I can't quite understand -- there seem to be two different standards being all mixed up and mashed together here -- metric and imperial. Even in your above statement: "grams per metre" and then rounding it to the nearest "ounce."

I wonder then perhaps whether I should have done my calculations using square metres instead of square yards... It COULD make a difference possibly. A meter and a yard are similar but different. Once you start squaring numbers, it could be quite a lot.

Let's double-check.

154.5"=3.92m
23" = 0.58m

54"= 1.37m (that is if we have a double-width of 54" as opposed to 56" or 60")

So the area of one linear METER of tartan fabric measures: 1.37m^2.

Hence, IF:

1.37m^2 -----> 13 oz
2.27m^2 -----> x oz

x = 21.5 oz. Which is still acceptable, given that my kilt weighed 25 oz.

However, using the original formula in metric (but using grams): 25oz ÷ 2..27m^2 x 1.37 = 15 oz. And there's no way that I have anywhere near that kind of weight... Which makes it more likely that the fabric weight was determined by the yard rather than by the metre, it seems.

**Pleater** · 16th June 11, 07:44 AM

Although there are changes as modern looms replace older ones, a 54 inch wide cloth is more likely to be all wool and the 60 inch and wider more likely to be a blend.

I was sold some fabric as wool but when it arrived and was 60 inches wide I was suspicious and pulled a thread out and put it in bleach - wool dissolves in bleach, man made and cotton etc doesn't. Sure enough after 24 hours there were threads left, so it was a blend.

Well done with the numbers.

The' traditional' width for wool being 54 inches, it would distort things if some weights were calculated from 60 inch cloth.

I have seen a seller who gave the equivalent weight - selling 60 inch and wider cloth but calculating what the weight of a running yarn of 54 inch cloth would be using the same thread and all.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**Dixiecat** · 19th June 11, 04:54 AM

Here's an idea...If you're really worried that your kilt maker is going to try to sell you an inferior fabric, then run away to another kilt maker!

A 10oz is not an 'inferior' fabric, just a lighter one.

So, CdnSushi, I guess my kilt is actually 13oz. Yay!

**azwildcat96** · 19th June 11, 11:28 AM

Originally Posted by Dixiecat

A 10oz is not an 'inferior' fabric, just a lighter one.

Not inferior, just less than expected, or not what was paid for.

**davidlpope** · 19th June 11, 11:47 AM

I'll be honest, I have gotten where I just feel the difference between the weights of fabric between my thumb and forefinger. I've learned not to rely on the "official weight" too much. Dalgliesh 15oz. is a thicker fabric than Lochcarron's 16oz. and HOE's 13oz. feels about the same as Fraser Kirkbright's 14oz.