Help me learn from my mistakes

[Calico]

Steve mentioned undoing the 3rd strap to see if that would get rid of that pucker in the small of your back. I'll go just a little further and say to remove that buckle altogether.

Some people like the look of the 3rd buckle, some think it is a mark of higher quality (it's not) but for most it just causes fabric stressing problems.

[Aspiringloser]

Yeah, I know it isn't necessary. I just like the looks of it. I'm not really concerned with fixing this particular kilt. I do however want to learn from it and make my next one and many more wearable. Thank you for your advice. It is much appreciated.
Paul.

[Aspiringloser]

When flaring the apron edges, how much of the edge should be vertical near the selvedge? Is there some formula for determining the amount between the bottom of the fell and the hem/selvedge? Does it differ with length and weight of fabric?
Paul.

[Paul Henry]

When flaring the apron edges, how much of the edge should be vertical near the selvedge? Is there some formula for determining the amount between the bottom of the fell and the hem/selvedge? Does it differ with length and weight of fabric?
Paul.

As much as resonably possible! but yes it does vary with different weights of cloth. It is possible to repress the edge to some degree even when the klt is finished